
THROUGH THE GLASS DARKLY:
An
Archaeological Pub Crawl of Great Britain
“When
you have lost your inns drown your empty selves, for you will
have lost the last of England” -
Hilaire Belloc
Of
course one could travel about Britain and maintain an absolutely
solemn view of the country's great treasures of ancient architecture,
but how much fun would that be, and how much of a real picture
of the place would it provide? Precious little say we. To
understand the British spirit one must understand British spirits,
which is to say Beer. From the rich mixture of civilizations
that has flourished in this land has emerged the true essence
of English life: the village pub, where ales, bitters, porters,
stouts, and other hop-and-barley concoctions abound in such
profusion as to daunt even the hardiest tippler.
Long
the bastion of all that is good and true in British culture,
the pub occupies the place today that it has held for many centuries,
as the spot where society is daily glued together through the
medium of beer. To appreciate Britain's heritage to the fullest
one must therefore go afoot, or in the later hours of the day
aknee, among
the pubs, the true heart of the country's cultural identity.
In recognition of this, we propose to put Britain's past in
proper -- if occasionally somewhat blurred -- perspective by
interspersing visits to extraordinary ancient sites with stops
at as many noteworthy pubs as prudence and capacity will allow.
We would not venture to suggest that you will find the present
more engaging than the past, but we do forewarn you that walking
about in historic architectural glories can produce an ever-increasing
thirst that water alone will not quench.
FAR
HORIZONS proudly presents a cultural pub-crawl through southern
Scotland and England that offers a rare chance to see, when
we are not within the confines of a public house, a great
many historic and archaeological sites that few visitors manage
to find. We will visit prehistoric stone circles and chambered
tombs, walk (or stagger) in the footsteps of Roman armies
along Hadrian's Wall, and savor the view from battlements
of medieval castles in remote and beautiful areas of Britain
-- and rarely if ever will we be far distant from a source
of liquid replenishment. We have carefully chosen a route
that travels past pub after pub (with stops as circumstances
require) on minor roads and country lanes through some of
the most picturesque rural countryside and best beer in the
British Isles. As
we journey from the harsh mountains and strong bitters of
the northwest to the soft rolling hills and gentle ales of
the southeast, we will come to understand how the history
of the country has shaped the landscape, and how the perception
of both history and the landscape has been shaped by a daily
few pints.
All
meals and overnights will be in carefully chosen traditional
and unspoiled pubs and inns, where we will be able to touch
pint mugs with the local people while you savor delicious
regional delicacies, washed down with the region's best representatives
of the British brewer's art. Come along with us, and shed
your sober outlook on the world!
"Without question, the greatest invention in the history of mankind is beer. Oh, I grant you that the wheel was also a fine invention, but the wheel does not go nearly as well with pizza."
- Dave Barry |
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy."
- Benjamin Franklin |
ITINERARY:
(B)
breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner |
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Day
1: Depart USA.
Day
2: Arrive Edinburgh. Spend the rest of the morning at Edinburgh
Castle, dominating the city’s skyline from its perch on
the precipitous crag of Castle Rock. During its stormy history
of sieges and wars it has evolved from its earliest beginnings
in the 11th century to the present-day national monument. Overnight
for two nights in the Open Arms, located on the village green
at Dirleton and overlooking Dirleton Castle. Gather this evening
for our welcome dinner party. (D)
Day
3: Today’s visit includes two diverse and spectacular
sites. The royal palace of Linlithgow was the birthplace of
Mary Queen of Scots. Rebuilt by James V in a vast and ornate
style, the building contains a Great Hall that is 94 feet long.
Rosslyn Chapel, a tiny 15th-century church with architectural
treasures hidden within. Every conceivable roof rib, capital,
boss, arch and corbel is encrusted with human and animal figures,
moldings and foliage, and the exquisite work of the mason is
enhanced by the plainness and severity of the late mediaeval
Scottish architecture. Tonight’s gala dinner party will
be held in Borthwick Castle, a romantic, privately owned castle
standing on the summit of a knoll on the periphery of the Borders
immortalized by Sir Walter Scott. It was built in 1430, was
once the refuge of Mary Queen of Scots and the Earl of Borthwell,
and was besieged by Oliver Cromwell in 1650. The atmosphere
and grandeur of its romantic past has been lovingly cherished
and maintained. Dinner in the main banquet hall is sure to be
a highlight of the trip. (B/D)
Day
4: Melrose Abbey is the site of the first Cistercian settlement
in Scotland. Unlike its Cistercian predecessor it is far from
austere - greatly and lavishly ornamented with capitals, bosses
and corbels carved with fruit, flowers and foliage. Humorous
additions to the masonry include human figurines around the
exterior walls - the cook with his ladle, the mason with his
mallet, the fat monk, and, flying high on a gargoyle - a bagpipe
playing pig! This church represents the high point in 15th-century
Scottish decorated architecture. Jedburgh Abbey was first built
by King David I of Scotland in 1138, but was probably the site
of a Northumbrian church from at least the 8th century. By 1154,
the priory had become an abbey and was populated by Augustinian,
or ‘black’ canons. It was fought over by the English
and Scots at many points in its history, but it remained in
the hands of the Augustinians until the later 16th century
when the Reformation brought an end to its attachment to the
Catholic Church. The village of Blanchland was first mentioned
in 1165, the date of the founding of the abbey. Over-night for
the next two nights at The Lord Crew Arms Inn. Built in the
mid-13th century, this atmospheric inn was formed from the abbot's
lodgings, guest-house and kitchens. It once was the home of
General Tom Forster, who led the doomed Jacobite rebellion in
1715. He was reputed to have hidden in a priest's hole near
one of the huge, walk-in fireplaces before fleeing to France,
and the ghost of his sister Dorothy still asks guests to take
a message to him in exile. (B/D)
Day
5: Today we will walk Hadrian's Wall, the northernmost frontier
of the Roman Empire. At Housesteads Fort, a Roman garrison,
the foundations of most of the buildings and defenses are well
preserved. We will see the small heated rooms of the commandant's
house and the latrines (with running water) used by the soldiers.
Vindolanda has reconstructions of turrets from the Wall and
a museum that contains unique organic remains such as leather
shoes and wooden writing tablets that have been excavated on
the site. This afternoon and if time permits, enjoy a tour of
Blanchland village. (B/D)
Day
6: This morning’s drive takes us to Barnard Castle, a
ruined Norman castle built in the 12th century, and Fountains
Abbey, the largest monastic ruin in Britain founded by the Cistercian
monks in 1132. The monks were great brewers (though they preached
temperance and moderation to others) and the production in this
great religious house was prodigious. Their
brewhouse produced sixty barrels of strong ale every ten days!
Theakston’s brewery is a one of the most successful of
the English ‘Real Ales.’ Since 1827, the Theakston’s
have been brewing their ales at the Black Bull Inn and Brewhouse.
Today, they produce millions of barrels of wonderfully creamy
bitter sold throughout the UK. Overnight for one night at a
traditional coaching inn, the Golden Lion. The inn serves Hambleton
Bitter, S&N Theakston Best Bitter, XB, and Old Peculier.
(B/D)
Day
7: York is a city that first gained prominence under the Romans.
Known as the city of Eboracuem, York was the second city of
Roman Britain beyond London. At the beginning of the fourth
century AD, the soldiers of York and Hadrian’s Wall raised
a young man called Constantine to the title of emperor and formed
a rebel army that swarmed through Europe making Constantine
the sole ruler of the Western Empire. Constantine became St.
Constantine the Great, and was instrumental in making Christianity
the official religion of Rome. After the fall of Roman Britain,
York became the capital of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria.
This came to
an end when the Vikings attacked and settled in York, renaming
the city Jorvik. We will be visiting the beautiful York Minster
Cathedral, a Norman building sitting on the ruins of Roman York.
We will examine the still standing Roman walls, and journey
through the 15th century streets of the town. Lunch will be
found in one of its many medieval pubs. On leaving York and time permitting, we
will visit Byland Abbey, a 12th century Cistercian monastery
in the gorgeous Yorkshire Dales. Across the road is The Abbey
Inn, a medieval coaching inn overlooking the ruins of the Abbey
and serving a variety of “real ales.” Continue to Stamford and overnight for two nights at an 18th century town house hotel, The Garden House Hotel. (B/D)
Day
8: Sites dating from the end of the ice age are quite rare in
Britain, but today we will visit the caves of Creswell Crags,
occupied by hunters over ten thousand years ago. We
continue to Flag Fen, where residents in 1350 BC fortified their
meadows from neighboring communities by constructing a long
defensive wall using hundreds of thousands of timbers. Return to Stamford this afternoon for some time to explore the town. Located less than a mile from the hotel is The Burhley House and Park, one of the largest and grandest houses of the first Elizabethan Age. (B/D)
Day
9: Our exploration of Cambridge will include the King's College
Chapel and The Eagle, Cambridge's main student/faculty hangout.
We will continue to St. Albans, named for the first Christian
martyr in England and the successor of the Roman city of Verulamium.
We will view a Roman theater that is unique to Great Britain,
part of the 3rd century city walls, and the museum with its
splendid collection of mosaics, wall paintings and recreated
Roman rooms. Overnight at The George Inn in Dorchester-in-Thames.
(B/D)
Day
10: The Uffington White Horse is cut into the white chalk that
lies under the grassy slopes. After visiting the stone circle
and henge at Avebury, we will see West Kennett Long Barrow,
a shared tomb where we can enter the chambers and examine the
prehistoric architecture. This afternoon we will view Silbury
Hill, the largest man-made earthwork in Europe. Overnight for
the next two nights in Salisbury at The Red Lion Hotel, originally built around 1220 in order to house the draughtsmen working on the new Cathedral of the town. (B/D)
Day
11: We begin today with an exploration of Cadbury Castle, an
atmospheric Iron Age and early medieval hill-fort overlooking
the Somerset Levels. Cadbury Castle was known until recently
as Cadbury Camelot, and local tradition maintains that the hill
was the site of King Arthur’s fabled castle. Archaeological
work on the hill confirms that the hill was extremely important.
The Romans attacked the hill in the first century AD, and left
its inhabitant in a mass grave within the entryway to the fort.
It later became the site of a Romano-Celtic temple and, eventually,
the home of a British king—perhaps Arthur himself! Next we visit
Cerne Abbas Giant which is a 150-foot-tall image of a man carved
into a chalk hillside. The Giant has traditionally been seen
as the Iron Age representation of a Celtic god, but more recent
work suggests it is an act of 17th century graffiti portraying
an indecent Oliver Cromwell. We finish our day with a visit
to Maiden Castle, one of the finest prehistoric hill-forts in
Britain covering 115 acres. (B/D)
Day
12: Today we visit our two final sites. Old Sarum was successively
an Iron Age British hill-fort known to the Romans as Sorviodunum,
a Roman and Saxon town, and a Norman fortress and cathedral.
As a key town in the ancient Saxon kingdom of Wessex, it was
important for the Normans to control this site. Because of this,
Henry I of England, son of William the Conquerer, used the site
as a royal residence for much of his reign. After leaving Old
Sarum, we will travel to the most popular archaeological attraction
in Britain, Stonehenge. The huge sandstone monoliths that make
up this Neolithic monument formed a ceremonial center oriented
towards the summer solstice and other astronomical points. Most
theories suggest that it was used as an agricultural calendar,
though recent work shows that it was connected to a wider spiritual
landscape including the stone circle at Avebury. After Stonehenge,
we finish our archaeological journey with a visit to the historic
city of Winchester for lunch and a tour of its marvelous Cathedral
and Great Hall—where King Arthur’s Round Table supposedly
hangs and the first parliament was held. Overnight at the Crown
Hotel in Amersham, made famous in the movie Four Weddings
and a Funeral. Our farewell dinner party will be a lovely
Turkish restaurant in the new part of Amersham. (B/D)
Day
13: Morning flight to USA. (B)
(B)
breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner
REAL
ALE is the champagne of the beer world. Also
known as traditional draught beer or cask-conditioned beer,
it is a top-fermented beer that undergoes a natural secondary
fermentation in the cask and is served without applied gas pressure.
Most “Real Ale” pubs serve by a simple suction pump
(a beer engine) that draws beer from the cask in the cellar
when the handpump on the bar is pulled. The methods of brewing
“real ale” produce beers of great complexity with
rich fruity and hoppy aromas and flavors.
"I
am thoroughly convinced that bad beer produces Communism…”
- H.L. Mencken.
STUDY
LEADER:
Dr.
Christopher Richard Bowles
received his PhD in Archaeology in the Department of Archaeology,
University of Glasgow. He is a specialist on the post-Roman
and early medieval periods. Dr. Bowles has worked on archaeological
sites in Scotland and Turkey, and has been an invited speaker
at conferences in England, Scotland and the United States. He
has a warm personality and is enthusiastic about the history
of Scotland.
2008 TRIP DATES: September 17 - 29, 2008
2008 LAND COST: $6,895.00
(per person, double occupancy) includes all hotels, meals as noted, entry fees, and all ground transportation.
Price is based upon the British pound at 2.25. If a fluctuation raises the pound, the final price may go up.
2008 SINGLE SUPPLEMENT: $795.00
Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement will be charged.
COST
DOES NOT INCLUDE: Roundtrip international flights; all lunches;
meals as noted; all beverages, food not on regular menus; passport
fees; airport departure taxes; tips and gratuities; laundry;
excess baggage charges and other items of a personal nature.
REGISTRATION: A deposit of $500.00 is required along with your registration form. Final payment is due 75 days before departure. Upon receipt of your deposit and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a tour bulletin containing travel information. An information book designed for this trip, including maps of archaeological sites and articles of pertinent interest will be sent upon receipt of final payment.
CANCELLATION
AND REFUNDS: Cancellations received in writing at least 75 days before
departure will result in an administrative fee of $250.00. Cancellations received
less than 75 days before departure will not receive a refund. If for any reason
you are unable to complete the trip, Far Horizons will not reimburse any fees.
Registrants are strongly advised to buy travel insurance that includes trip
cancellation.
HOTELS: Hotels and pubs listed in the brochure might change; the ambiance will not.
NOTE ABOUT ITINERARY CHANGES: Changes in our itinerary, accommodations, and transportation schedules may occur. A good book to read as well as a flexible attitude and a sense of humor are essential.
LIMITED TO 8 PARTICIPANTS
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