Essential Mongolia – with Lauren L. Bonilla
Look for new dates in 2012
Flying into Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s capital, you are immediately aware of landing somewhere unusual. The rolling green of the steppe that epitomizes Mongolia meets the edges of the city like the waves of an ocean lapping at the sand. You realize that if there is this sense of open space and wildness here in the capital, traveling into the depths of the landscape will be an exceptional experience. In fact, this journey will overflow our senses with the mind-expanding and awe inspiring.
Deer stones are to Mongolia as the moai are
to Easter Island, almost! Most of the deer stones in the world are in Mongolia and we visit Khadin Hondii, or Valley of the Kings, to view the largest concentrations of these mysterious stone monuments. Travel to LakeKhovsgol one of the world’s most ancient lakes, exploring the area on horseback and by boat. Enjoy a local Naadam Festival, a celebration believed to continue a centuries-old tradition. Visit Kharkhorin the 13th century site of the Mongol Empire’s capital and home to Erdene Zuu, an important Buddhist Monastery. In Khustain Nuruu National Park see the Przewalski horses, the world’s only truly wild horses. Spend time at Amarbyasgalant Monastery, the setting alone worth the drive.
Discover the vibrant city of Ulaanbaatar with specially arranged visits to workshops of a morin khor or horse-head fiddle maker and a traditional Mongolian bow and arrow maker. No visit to Mongolia would be complete without hearing the haunting strains of khoomei, or throat singing, or witnessing the ancient tradition of the shaman’s trance. Don’t miss this opportunity to journey into one of this world’s last seemingly limitless expanses.
(B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner
Day 1 Tour Begins: Depart from Los Angeles on our cultural tour to Mongolia.
Day 2: Arrive in Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia, and transfer to the Kempinski Hotel, our home for two nights.
Day 3: Our cultural tour of Mongolia begins as we explore some of the many important sites in Ulaanbaatar. Begin in the Gandan Monastery, now the most important Buddhist sanctuary in Mongolia. Having survived the Communist purges of the 1930s, it reopened in 1944 as the onlyfunctioning monastery during the socialist regime. Inside is a 75-foot-high statue of Magjid Janraisig (the lord who looks in every direction), covered with precious stones and over 75 feet tall. Choijin Lama Temple was built more than a century ago and is now a museum complex with well-preserved, elaborately-decorated interiors. The museum contains a staggeringly rich and impressive collection of Buddhist sculpture and painting, including several gilded bronze statues, remarkable sculptures, and a striking array of papier-maché masks used in the Tsam dance ceremonies. Continue to the Museum of Mongolian History which presents the entire pageant of Mongolian culture, from prehistory to the present. This afternoon visit a traditional bow and arrow maker as well as the vast, crowded and colorful Naran Tuul or “Black Market” where you can purchase a kitchen sink, a lipstick or a pair of Mongolian boots! (B/L/D)
Day 4: An early departure takes us to Gun Galuut in time to participate in the annual summer celebration of Naadam. The traditional festival normally begins with an elaborate introduction featuring dancers, athletes, horse riders, and musicians. After the ceremony, the competitions begin. Ulaanbaatar celebrates the national Naadam in July, but today we have the opportunity of witnessing a smaller, less chaotic, and less commercialized festival in this small community. Tonight’s hotel is a camp containing a series of gers, or nomadic tent-dwellings, located within Gun Galuut National Park. The ger camps are Mongolian versions of motels with traditionally decorated permanent tents for sleeping, separate buildings for dining, and another for toilets and showers. Each heavily insulated ger is comfortably furnished with beds made up with sheets and blankets. (B/L/D)
Day 5: Today we enjoy spirited traditional contests of horse racing, archery, and wrestling. Mongolians have a high regard for horses as for centuries they have relied on them for transport, sustenance, and companionship. In Mongolian races, young children are the jockeys and they gallop cross-country, frequently covering as much as 17 miles dependent upon the age of their mount. Prior to the races, the spectators sing traditional songs and the jockeys a song called Gingo. Mongolian archery is unique as both men and women line up in front of hundreds of targets on a huge wall. And wrestlers, wearing two-piece costumes consisting of a tight vest and shorts, lose if they touch the ground. In the late afternoon, we return to Ulaanbaatar and the Kempinski Hotel for the night. Dinner is on our own to explore the capital city, home of 40% of Mongolia’s population. (B/L)

Day 6: Transfer to the airport for our morning flight to Mörön. Upon arrival, drive west to Uushigiin Uver with a collection of 14 upright carved deer stones. These stone monuments are characterized by low-relief carvings of deer-like creatures with flowing antlers that appear to be flying. They are generally believed to have been erected during the Late Bronze Age, around 1000 B.C. An air of mystery surrounds the deer stones as very little is known about their meaning or function although some scholars speculate that they may have been created to represent important people. Over 550 have been identified thus far in Mongolia's grassy steppe region, occurring singly, in small groups, or concentrated in larger groupings. Nearby Khadin Hondii, or Valley of the Kings, was the burial place of kings. Continue traveling on dirt roads until we reach the Khatgal Ger Camp near Lake Khövsgöl, our home for one night. (B/L/D)
Day 7: Lake Khövsgöl, known as the ‘Blue Pearl’, holds almost 70% of Mongolia’s fresh water and is one of seventeen ancient
lakes worldwide existing for more than 2 million years; this one is the most pristine. The Lake area is a National Park bigger than Yellowstone and strictly protected as a transition zone between Central Asian steppe and Siberian taiga, or boreal forest. Today we begin our exploration of this huge body of water and its environs. Following a leisurely breakfast, experience this untouched wilderness on a horseback ride. Along the way, watch for the Baikal teal, bar-headed goose, and Altai snow cock as well as the argali sheep, ibex, moose and other species that thrive in the park. North and west of Lake Khövsgöl in the taiga and steppe regions a remarkable culture remains largely unchanged since the Ice Age. Shamanistic or totemic rituals and symbolism are central to their daily life. Tonight we have the singular and private opportunity of observing a Shaman entering a trance. (B/L/D)
Day 8: Today’s early departure and drive to Jargalant affords us the opportunity of experiencing the landscape of Mongolia. Depending on our route, decided by our experience drivers as we travel, we either see petroglyphs or deer stones. Stop along the way for a picnic lunch. Located near the Ider River, Jargalant offers sweeping views across pastureland where sheep, goats, cattle, yak, horses, and camels graze. Overnight for one night at Jargalant ger camp. (B/L/D)
Day 9: Our glorious drive takes us through the Khorgo Terkh National Park. Called the “Switzerland of Mongolia”, the area is renowned for the striking Khangai Mountains, its many rivers, and verdant forests. Spend time exploring Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake, also known as White Lake, and take an optional hike around Khorgo, a dormant volcano located near the eastern end of the lake. Enjoy a picnic lunch en route. Late in the afternoon stop in the town of Tsetserleg, the provincial center of Arkhangai Aimag, or province, to visit a local felt-makers’ co-op. Overnight for one night at Tsenkher Hot Springs Ger Camp. (B/L/D)

Day 10: Kharkhorin is our next destination, the site of the capital of the thirteenth-century Mongolian Empire located in the Orkhon Valley. The Orkhon Valley Cultural Landscape is a UNESCO World Heritage site and comprises the natural landscape as well as numerous archaeological remains dating to back to the 6th century.The ancient town of Karakorum, or Black Fortress, was established here in the eighth century as a military training and weapons production unit. Chinggis (Genghis) Khan, one of history’s most influential people, unified the tribes of Central Asia to create the largest empire in history. The town was taken over by this great ruler and made a capital to boost trade and from which to launch military campaigns. Also explore the ruins of Har Balgas, the 9th-century capital city of the Uigurs established as a political and trade center in the west of theOrhon basin, stone monuments near Dashinchilen and the ruins of the white palace of Tsogt Taij. There are several memorial complexes of ancient Turkic noblemen in the valley of the river Hugshin Orhon. The complexes were found by a Russian expedition in 1889. Two of them were established in 731 and 735 in honor of Bilge Khan and his younger brother Kül Tigin who were political leaders of Second Turkic Empire. Each complex has a channel, wall and consists of shrine, stone enclosure, stelae erected on the tortoise-shaped stone base, stone sculptures and anthropomorphic stelae called balbals. Enjoy lunch at Mungun Mod Ger Camp, our home for two nights. This afternoon, spend time with a local nomadic herder and his family learning about their way of life. (B/L/D)

Day 11: Erdene Zuu Monastery, thought to be the oldest surviving Buddhist complex in the country, is where we begin today. Built in approximately 1586 by Abtai Sain Khanon on the site of ancient Karakorum and constructed with the city’s stones, it is surrounded by a wall featuring 108 stupas and was, prior to the Communist purge, considered the seat of Buddhism in Mongolia. Explore the complex, including the museum and the restored active temple, and meet with the Abbott for a private audience. We’ll also see the turtle rocks marking the four corners of the ancient town and a symbol of protection of the town of Kharakhorin. Tonight we delight in a musical performance including khoomei, or throat singing, a form of overtone singing originating in the area of Tuva in Siberia, and an integral component of the Mongolian culture. (B/L/D)

Day 12: This morning’s drive takes us to Khustain Nuruu National Park, preserve of the Przewalski horse, or Takhi, the national symbol of Mongolia. The Takhi is the only remaining truly wild horse and has no domesticated ancestors. The Mongolian Government declared the park a Specially Protected Area in 1993, one year after the initiation of the reintroduction project of the Takhi to the area. The park is home to over 600 species of plants, lichens, moss and mushrooms, 217 species of birds, as well as numerous species of mammals including Mongolian gazelle, wild boar, Ibex, Mongolian marmots, and wolves. Our explorations of this remarkable park includes viewing a deer stone, and searching for balbals, Turkic grave markers, some upright pillars of stone and others carved in the form of a man usually with a moustache and carrying a bird. As we explore, we look for the Przewalski horses, perhaps hiking in order to obtain a better view of these notable creatures (don’t forget your binoculars!). Overnight for one night at the Khustai Ger Camp. (B/L/D)

Day 13: Our adventure continues as we drive to Amarbayasgalant, located in the Iven Gol River valley at the foot of Burenkhan Mountain. One of the country’s largest monasteries, it was established in 1726 by the Manju emperor Enkh-Amgalan Khan and took more than ten years to complete. Originally, this complex consisted of over 40 temples, and 28 of them remain. The monastery is located in an area where Turkic-era graves are located. These important archaeological features show that the valley has long-standing sacred associations for the people of Mongolia. Upon arrival spend some time exploring the monastery. Overnight for one night at Amarbayasgalant Ger Camp. (B/L/D)
Day 14: We have time for further exploration of the monastery and its environs, and have the opportunity to meet with the monks before leaving this lovely site. Today about sixty novices and ordained monks are in residence and practice the Vinaya tradition of Buddhism. During the Repression of 1937-38 all the monks were executed and many of the rare religious relics, books, sutras, thangkas (silk painting with embroidery depicting a Buddhist deity, famous scene, or mandala) and representations of the Buddha which had been collected over 200 years, were destroyed completely. Drive back to Ulaanbaatar stopping en route for lunch. Before dinner, enjoy a performance of folk theater, Tumen Ekh, which will include throat singing, traditional dances, and contortionism. Overnight for two nights in the Kempinski Hotel. Dinner is on our own this evening. (B/L)
Day 15: Our all day exploration of Ulaanbaatar begins with a drive to Zaisan Memorial built on Bogd Khan Mountain for a view of the city and the four sacred cardinally directed peaks which surround it. Visit the Bogd Khan or Emperor’s Winter Palace and Summer Prayer Temple complex, built by the last of the Bogd Gegeens to live in Mongolia. Stroll around Sükhbaatar Square, named after the Mongolian National Hero of the People’s Revolution in 1921 and view the Parliament, Stock Exchange and Royal Palace Opera House. Wander through The Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts with its collection of examples from Mongolia’s art tradition. Visit the workshop of a morin khoor or horse-head violin maker and learn about this centuries-old craft which exemplifies how inextricably linked the Mongolia culture is to the horse. Gather tonight for our farewell dinner in a local restaurant. (B/L/D)
Day 16: Depart Ulaanbaatar on our return flight to the USA. (B)
Lauren L. Bonilla received her BA in Anthropology and Geography from Macalester College, and is presently working on her PhD at Clark University. Ms. Bonilla has spent ten years focused on Mongolia, including field research for the past seven years, and has been the recipient of two Fulbright Fellowships for work in that country. She was the Researcher-in-Residence at a lodge in Omnogobi Province, and the co-founder of Torguud Studies Association with the Chinggis Khan University in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. Ms. Bonilla is currently conducting research with a team of specialists on a project collecting and analyzing the oldest and rarest maps depicting Mongolia since the 15th century. She is fluent in Mongolian, including the Kalmyk and Oirat dialects, and conversant in Chinese. Ms. Bonilla brings the passion of youth to her research on Mongolia. She is knowledgeable not only in its history, culture, and language, but is familiar with the issues that affect Mongolia today.
Look for new dates in 2012
Tour Cost To be determined. (per person, double occupancy) includes round trip international flights; internal flight; all hotels, meals as noted, entry fees, and all ground transportation.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: A separate tax-deductible check for $150.00, per person, to the Mongolian Arts Council.; passport or visa fees; airport or departure taxes; alcoholic drinks, other beverages or food not included on regular menus; excess baggage charges; gratuities to guides and drivers and other personal tips; email, telephone and fax charges; laundry; or other items of a personal nature.
SINGLE SUPPLEMENT: To be determined. Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement will be charged. Please note that single rooms in the ger camps are limited.
FUEL SURCHARGES: Far Horizons must pass on price increases when additional fuel charges are levied.
NOTE ON DONATION: The cost of the trip does not include a separate tax-deductible check for $150.00, per person, to the Mongolian Arts Council. You may visit their web site at http://www.artscouncil.mn/our_misson.html. As a tour company that benefits from the cultural and natural riches of our destinations, we have a policy of donating to the scientific and cultural projects and museums we visit. The donation is required as part of your registration for the trip and is non-refundable..
RegistrationA deposit of $500.00 is required along with a separate check made out to the donation project is required, as well as your completed and signed registration form. Final payment is due 75 days before departure. Upon receipt of your deposit and registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a tour bulletin containing travel information. Prior to the trip, we will send links to websites of pertinent interest to the trip. Click here to download our Registration Form.
Cancellations received in writing at least 75 days before departure will receive a refund less a $250.00 administrative fee. Cancellations received less than 75 days before the departure date will not receive a refund. If for any reason you are unable to complete the trip, Far Horizons will not reimburse any fees. Registrants are strongly advised to buy travel insurance that includes trip cancellation.
Air TicketingIf you do not fly on the group flight, you are responsible for all flight arrangements and transportation (including airport transfers) to join the group. If Far Horizons must change the trip dates or cancel the trip for any reason, Far Horizons is not responsible for any air ticket you may have purchased. If you issue your own international flight, please send the complete schedule to us as soon as possible.
The private tours of archaeological sites and talks by specialists are scheduled in advance and include a donation to each. Specialists working at these sites are excited about showing their work to interested enthusiasts. However, please be aware that there may be times when the director or a member of the staff may not be onsite when our groups arrive due to other commitments, or that the date or time of our visit to their project must be changed.
This trip is for the hardy! The adventurous nature of the itinerary makes it essential that you be in good physical condition and maintain a flexible attitude. Long walks may be required to reach some areas, including walks over steep gradients and poorly maintained paths. There will be several long drives on bumpy and uneven dirt roads . We will be staying in ger camps comprised of permanent tents for sleeping, separate buildings for dining, and another for toilets and showers. Two participants will be assigned to each ger tent. Note that changes in our itinerary, accommodations, and transportation schedules may occur. Team spirit and a sense of humor are essential! If you have questions about your ability to handle this sort of challenge, please call us.



THE CULTURAL TOUR OF MONGOLIA IS LIMITED TO 14 PARTICIPANTS
Far Horizons Archaeological and Cultural Trips Inc.
P.O. Box 2546, San Anselmo, CA 94979 USA
415-482-8400, 800-552-4575, Fax 415-482-8495, journey@farhorizons.com