South India: Temples and TraditionsWith Professor Daud Ali
January 1 - 18, 2012
Join Far Horiozns on an 18-day archaeological tour to South India. Immerse yourself in a history spanning over two thousand years, a region that is home to myriad of extraordinary dynasties and empires. Dive into an area of India which has managed to retain the essence of its mystique despite invasions both historical and modern. From Hampi and Chikmagalur and Karaikudi to Tanjore, the temples we visit contain some of the greatest architectural and 
sculptural achievements in India and the cuisine we indulge in will satisfy every sense. Whether swept away by the fragrance of the tea, the vibrant deities of the Hindu cosmos or our view of the Cardamom Hills, we find ourselves intoxicated.
Several of our overnights will be memorable as we stay in carefully chosen hotels depicting the ambience of southern India - the heritage INDeco Swamilmali, where charming cottages are nestled in lush gardens around a hundred year old villa, the Coconut Lagoon in Kerala’s Backwaters, described by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the 25 Best Destinations in the World and featured in National Geographic Traveler's '50 greatest places of a lifetime', and the delightful 5-star Brunton Boatyard, with large rooms and balconies where you can
the river traffic pass.
A journey to this hemisphere offers the receptive traveler an exceptional opportunity to explore a unique and often seemingly enchanted land.
(B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner
Day 1: Begin our cultural tour onboard our flight from New York to Bangalore.
Day 2: Arrive in Bangalore, the capital city of the southern Indian state of Karnataka. Bangalore was founded in the 16th century and is known as the Garden City. Today it is regarded as India’s “Silicon Valley.” Transfer to The Park, a charming boutique hotel, our home for one night.
Day 3: Today we drive north to Hospet, our base for Hampi, or Vijayanagara—the City of Victory. Overnight for two nights at the simple Krishna Palace in Hospet. (B/L/D)
Day 4: All day will be spent in Hampi, the seat of the famed Vijayanagara Empire and the capital of the largest kingdom in post-Mogul India. Although in ruins today, this city once boasted riches known far beyond the shores of India and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Virupaksha Temple contains the shrines of Shiva, Pampa, and Bhuvaneswari. It has a conspicuous, 164-foot-high gopura, or entrance tower, and parts of this temple are older than the rest of the Vijayanagara monuments. The monolith—21 feet high—of Ugra Narasimha is nearby. It was carved from a single boulder in 1528 and presents an image of Vishnu. The Hazara Ramachandra Temple may have been the private place of worship for the royal family. The most splendid monument of Hampi is undoubtedly the Vitthala Temple Complex with its 56 musical pillars that resonate when tapped. The Lotus Mahal, shaped like a lotus flower, was the air-cooled summer palace of the the queen. The Krishna Temple is a monumental complex east of Virupaksha Temple dedicated to lord Krishna, one of the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu. The King's Balance, near Vitthala Temple, is where kings were weighed against grain, gold, or money which was then distributed to the poor. And then see the Queen's Bath with lotus-shaped fountains that once spouted perfumed water. (B/L/D)
Day 5: Return to Hampi today for further explorations of the temples and surrounding area. In the afternoon, return to the hotel for lunch and to rest before boarding an overnight train to Bangalore in first-class sleeper cabins. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)
Day 6: Upon arrival into Bangalore this morning, immediately transfer to Mysore, a charming and scenic city known for its multitude of magnificent palaces. In the afternoon, visit Amba Vilas Palace or Mysore Palace. Commissioned 1897 and completed in 1912 by the Wodeyars – the royal family of Mysore - the architectural style of the palace is commonly described as Indo-Saracenic, blending together Hindu, Muslim, Rajput, and Gothic styles of architecture. Continue on to nearby Chamundi Hill, where legend has it that the buffalo-headed demon Mahishasura was killed by the Goddess Chamundeswari (or Chamundi) after a fierce battle. At the top of the hill we find Chamundeswari temple, built in the 17th century, offering spectacular views of Mysore. Those who are feeling adventurous may opt to climb the 1,000 steps to reach the top and pass by the colossal Nandi Monolith, sculpted out of a single boulder, over 15 feet high, and 24 feet long. It was created during the reign of Dodda Devaraja, who also built the steps leading up the hill. Return to Mysore and, time permitting, stop by Devraj Market and the Government Silk Weaving Factory to view the weaving technique for which the city is known. Overnight at the Royal Orchid Metropole, reminiscent of the former Maharaja of Mysore with its imperial arches, imposing pillars and ornate corridors. (B/L/D)
Day 7: Begin today with an optional early-morning tour of Ranganatitthu Bird Sanctuary, situated on the banks of the Kaveri River and an important nesting and breeding ground for migratory birds from all over India and the world: painted storks, spoon bills, white ibises, egrets, herons and kingfishers. Our next stop is Somanathapura and its Chennakesava Temple (also called Keshava temple) built with a star-shaped base by Soma, a dandanayaka (commander) in 1268AD under Hoysala king Narasimha III. Each small, compact temple built under the Hoysala Empire is lavishly decorated with sculpture, and the decorations cover every inch of wall space. This tightly packed sculptural scheme is exclusive to Hoysala art and was never replicated. Continue to Bangalore for our flight to picturesque Cochin, an important spice trading center and sea port. Pepper and cardamom, cinnamon and ginger, nutmeg, mace and anise from the Periyar hills – all were transported to Cochin to be shipped to a spice-hungry world. Overnight for two nights at the elegant, boutique Brunton Boatyards stretching along the city’s historic waterfront overlooking the sea and created from a Victorian boatyard. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)
Day 8 Tour of Cochin: Cochin is full of echoes of Kerala's past colonizers, including Hindu and Mughal dynasties, Portuguese and Dutch conquerors, and the British Empire - which came seeking control of the lucrative pepper trade. The city hosts the oldest church in India, 500-year-old Portuguese houses, old tiled houses built in the Chinese pagoda style, and a Jewish community whose roots go back to the Diaspora. Spend the morning seeing the sites of this lovely city including Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace), built by the Portuguese in 1557 and containing stunning murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and Puranic legends. The afternoon is free to stroll the town for gifts, relax poolside. Enjoy an elegant dinner at the hotel’s fine restaurant. (B/L/D)
Day 9 Kerala Backwaters tour: Drive to Allepey where we board a traditional houseboat and spend several hours drifting through the backwaters of Kerala toward Kumbakonam enjoying lunch onboard. The backwaters are a network of canals, lakes, lagoons and estuaries stretching over almost 1000 square miles. Here, palm-fringed narrow canals wind through a vast expanse of paddy fields. As we float along, enjoy the picturesque hamlets that line the banks, migratory birds in abundance, water lilies and coconut groves. Our ride ends at Coconut Lagoon Resort located on the edge of the great Vembanad Lake. Fittingly, the resort can be reached only by water. The tile-roofed bungalows,
feudal dwellings of the Malabar landowners, have been painstakingly transplanted brick-by-brick and timber-by-timber, to give the visitor a unique experience in living.
While there, you may chose to enjoy
an Ayurveda massage.
This will be our home for one night. (B/L/D)
Day 10: Today’s journey takes us through a panorama of cardamom, coffee and pepper plantations from the western Ghats of Kerala to Madurai, one of South India's great temple towns, synonymous with the celebrated Meenakshi Temple. Overnight for two nights at the Taj Gateway Pasumalai,
set amid 62 acres of peaceful, landscaped gardens
and offering picturesque views of the Temple City and the Kodai Hills. (B/L/D)
Day 11: The area around Madurai has a rich cultural heritage passed on from the great Tamil realm more than 2500 years ago. It was an important cultural and commercial center even as early as 550 A.D. and was the capital city for the great Pandya kings. Begin today at Tirumalai Nayak Palace, built in 1636 AD by one of the Madurai Nayak rulers. During the 19th century the Governor of Madras renovated the complex, and today only the spacious rectangular courtyard called the Swarga Vilasam and a few adjoining buildings survive. Their imposing scale evokes the grandeur of a vanished era. Encircled by high walls and containing twelve soaring gopura towers, the enormous Meenakshi Temple complex is dedicated to Shiva. The towers are completely covered with stucco figures of vividly painted deities and mythical animals. The afternoon will be spent visiting nearby temples and experiencing Madurai’s bustling city atmosphere. Dinner is on our own. This evening we will visit the temple to view the evening ceremony when the temple bronze of Lord Shiva on a silver chariot is carried to the bed chamber of his wife, Parvati. The colorful procession is accompanied by musicians, temple singers and priests in a cacophony of prayer and temple music. (B/L)
Day 12: Depart Madurai for our drive to Karaikudi, capital of the Chettinad region in the state of Tamil Nadu, and the original homeland of the Nattukottai Chettiars, a prosperous merchant community dating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The wealth of the traders is displayed in the area’s palatial houses notable for their ornate doorways, chandeliers, and carved wooden ceilings. We spend this afternoon in Karaikudi’s historical environs including a stop at a neighboring village, home to one of the most imposing mansions in the region. This area is rich in craft-makers from stone and wood carvers to silversmiths. We will also visit local artisanal workshops to observe the traditional hand-loomed weaving of the bold and vibrant patterned cotton used for the famous Chettinad saris as well as the enduring art of Athangudi tile making. Time permitting, we will explore Karaikudi’s famous Antique Market. Overnight in one of the
Impeccably restored Art Deco Chettiar mansions in town, now a resort in Visalam.
Here experience true Indian hospitality along with
excellent Chettinad cuisine.
(B/L/D)
Day 13: Depart this morning for Thanjavur (Tanjore) with a stop at Illayankudi Patti or Ayyanar temple. Ayyanar temples are not as architecturally elaborate as many of the other temples we have visited but their deities are often painted in vibrant hues. The connection between crafts and worship is particular to Ayyanar temples. At an auspicious time, the villages collect money and commission the priest and his family to make new terracotta horses for Ayyanar and, if necessary, a new Ayyanar too. After enjoying a local lunch in Tanjore, continue to Brihadishvara Temple, completed in 1010 AD and an outstanding example of Chola architecture. The gigantic statue of Nandi the Bull guards the inner shrine, and the courtyard walls of the sanctum are covered with paintings from the Chola and Nayak periods, comparable to the famous Ajanta cave frescoes. After visiting the temple, drive to Swamimalai and overnight for two nights at the INDeco Swamimalai Resort (formerly the Sterling Swamimalai), a one hundred year old Heritage hotel. (B/L/D)
Day 14: Nearby Kumbakonam is one of the oldest towns in south India and the capital of the Chola kings in the seventh century. There is a multitude of fascinating temples in the center of town dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva, including the Sarangapani Temple and the Nageshvara Temple used for sun worship during a three-day period in April. Recently declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Airavateshvara Temple at nearby Darasuram is one of the oldest of the Chola temples. Return to Swamimalai for a visit to Rajan Bronze Workshop, where we witness the traditional Chola bronze-making techniques, little changed since the ninth century AD. The earliest bronze statues in India were cast in the Indus Valley about 2300 BC, reaching an artistic peak during south India's Chola Dynasty. After dinner, enjoy an optional visit to Adi Kumbeswarar Temple for the evening ceremony, located on the east side of Mahamaham Tank in Kumbakonam and reputed to be more than 1,300 years old. (B/L/D)
Day 15: Depart this morning for Chidambaram where we visit Natarajar Temple, one of the most ancient and celebrated shrines in India. The roof of this Shiva temple has 21,600 gold tiles and 72,000 nails, and represent the breaths a person takes each day. We continue to Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram), the chief seaport of the Pallava kings who ruled over much of south India from as early as the first century B.C. Overnight for two nights in the luxurious GRT Temple Bay Hotel, built along a beautiful beach overlooking the Bay of Bengal in Mamallapuram. (B/L/D)
Day 16: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mamallapuram is recognized for some of the greatest architectural and sculptural achievements in India. At the southern edge of the site there is a group of five free-standing temples. Four of them were carved out of a single, long granite boulder and are detailed replicas of ancient wooden structures. Built of granite blocks, the Shore Temple is the earliest known example of a stone-built temple in south India. The sculptured rock relief known as Bhagiratha’s Penance illustrates the descent of the Ganges, which begins in the heavens as the Milky Way. The celestial river descends from the sky to the summit of Mount Meru, the cosmic axis mountain, and then splashes and flows through the Hinduworld. Return to the hotel in the afternoon with time to relax poolside or walk along the beach. Lunch is on your own. Enjoy our Farewell Dinner this evening. (B/D)
Day 17: This morning we depart for Chennai, visiting Kanchipuram (Kanchi) en route. This city has served as a royal capital to great empires for centuries, and this is reflected in its many exceptional temples. The temple of Kailasanatha, dedicated to Shiva, contains splendid carvings of divinities, including a depiction of a dance competition between Lord Shiva and the goddess Parvati. Vaikuntha Perumal Temple depicts the warlike feats of the Pallava rulers in bas-relief style on the temple walls. Ekambareshvara Temple contains one of the tallest gopuras in India, and the inner walls are decorated with 1,008 Shiva linga. Varadharaja Perumal Temple was built by the Cholas in 1053 A.D. Upon arrival to Chennai in the early afternoon, check into the GRT Grand Hotel with time to relax and freshen up before transferring to the airport for our evening international flights back to the USA. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)
Day 18: Arrive U.S.A.
Professor Daud Ali was born in Calcutta, son of Bengali father and American mother, and since his early youth has had an abding interest in things Indian. He received his B.A. at the College of William in Mary in Religious Studies and English Literature, an M.A. at the Divinity School at the University of Chicago in History of Religions, and his Ph.D. in History at the University of Chicago. His thesis was on the medieval South Indian history. He has taught South Asian History at the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS), University of London for fourteen years before joining the staff of the University of Pennsylvania as the new Chair of the Department of South Asia Studies. Dr. Ali is a specialist in the history and culture of pre-Sultanate South Asia, and is the author of Querying the Medieval: The History of Practice in South Asia and Courtly Culture and Political Life in Early Medieval India, the first book-length study to focus exclusively on the development of the royal court as a social and cultural institution in early India. He has published on a wide variety of subjects, from courtier merchants in medieval South India to service retinues of the Chola kings, from Buddhist monasticism to gardens in ancient India. His current research projects concern, among other things, the history of the king Bhoja in medieval India. Raised in the United States, Professor Ali reads Sanskrit, and speaks and reads Tamil, an important language of southern India.
January 1 - 18, 2012
$9,995.00 (per person, double occupancy) includes international flights from New York; all hotels, most meals (as noted), entry fees, and ground transportation and three domestic flights within India.
Cost Does Not Include:A separate donation check for $150.00 per participant made out to the designated donation project, passport or visa fees, airport taxes, gratuities to guides and drivers; beverage or food not on regular menus; alcoholic drinks; laundry; excess baggage charges; email, telephone and fax charges; or other items of a personal nature.
Single Supplement: $1,495.00. Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement will be charged.
Fuel Surcharges: Far Horizons must pass on price increases when additional fuel charges are levied.
Donation Checks: As a tour company that benefits from the cultural and natural riches of our destinations, we have a policy of donating to the scientific and cultural projects and museums we visit. This has created a bond between Far Horizons and the academic and local communities that has helped us establish an extensive list of lecturers and contacts in each of our destinations. We ask that each participant write a check to the designated donation project. The donation amount is $150.00 per person and is made by check directly to the donation project. Note that the donation is required as part of your registration for the trip and that it is non-refundable. We will designate a donation project shortly.
A deposit of $500.00 and the separate donation check for $150.00 (made out to the designated project) are required along with your registration form. Final payment is due 75 days before departure. Upon receipt of your deposit and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a tour bulletin containing travel information. Prior to the trip, we will send links to various websites of pertinent interest to the trip. Click here to download our Registration Form.
Cancellations and RefundsCancellations received in writing at least 75 days before departure will result in an administrative fee of $250.00 per person. Cancellations received less than 75 days before departure will not receive a refund. If forany reason you are unable to complete the tour, we will not reimburse any fees. Registrants are strongly advised to buy travel insurance that includes trip cancellation.
If you do not fly on the group flight, you are responsible for all flight arrangements and transportation (including airport transfers) to join the group. If Far Horizons must change the trip dates or cancel the trip for any reason, Far Horizons is not responsible for any air ticket you may have purchased.
Changes in our itinerary, accommodations, and transportation schedules may occur. A good book to read as well as a flexible attitude and a sense of humor are essential.
THIS CULTURAL TOUR OF SOUTH INDIA IS LIMITED TO 17 PARTICIPANTS
