Through the Glass Darkly:With Dr. James Bruhn
September 17 - 29, 2010
"Without question, the greatest invention in the history of mankind is beer. Oh, I grant you that the wheel was also a fine invention, but the wheel does not go nearly as well with pizza." - Dave Barry
Of course one could travel about Britain and maintain an absolutely solemn view of the country's great treasures of ancient architecture, but how much fun would that be, and how much of a real picture of the place would it provide? Precious little say we. To understand the British spirit one must understand British spirits, which is to say Beer. From the rich mixture of civilizations that has flourished in this land has emerged the true essence of English life: the village pub, where ales, bitters, porters, stouts, and other hop-and-barley concoctions abound in such profusion as to daunt even the hardiest tippler.
Long the bastion of all that is good and true in British culture, the pub occupies the place today that it has held for many centuries, as the spot where society is daily glued together through the medium of beer. To appreciate Britain's heritage to the fullest one must therefore go afoot, or in the later hours of the day aknee, among the pubs, the true heart of the country's cultural identity. In recognition of this, we propose to put Britain's past in proper -- if occasionally somewhat blurred -- perspective by interspersing visits to extraordinary ancient sites with stops at as many noteworthy pubs as prudence and capacity will allow. We would not venture to suggest that you will find the present more engaging than the past, but we do forewarn you that walking about in historic architectural glories can produce an ever-increasing thirst that water alone will not quench.
Join only 7 others on a cultural tour, a pub crawl through southern Scotland and England that offers a rare chance to see, when not within the confines of a public house, a great many historic and archaeological sites that few visitors manage to find. Visit prehistoric stone circles and chambered tombs, walk in the footsteps of Roman armies along Hadrian's Wall, and savor the view from battlements of medieval castles in remote and beautiful areas of Britain -- and rarely if ever be far distant from a source of liquid replenishment. We have carefully chosen a route that travels past pub after pub (with stops as circumstances require) on minor roads and country lanes through some of the most picturesque rural countryside and best beer in the British Isles. As we journey from the harsh mountains and strong bitters of the northwest to the soft rolling hills and gentle ales of the southeast, we will come to understand how the history of the country has shaped the landscape, and how the perception of both history and the landscape has been shaped by a daily few pints. All lunches, dinners, and overnights will be in local pubs.
Come along with us, and shed your sober outlook on the world!
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." - Benjamin Franklin
"I have made an important discovery... that alcohol, taken in sufficient quantities, produces all the effects of intoxication." - Oscar Wilde
“I am thoroughly convinced that bad beer produces Communism…” - H.L. Mencken.
"Not drunk is he who from the floor can rise again and drink some more." - Old English field sobriety test
(B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner
Day 1: Depart on our archaeological tour onboard out flight to Edinburgh.
Day 2 Tour of Edinburgh: Arrive Edinburgh. Spend the afternoon at Edinburgh Castle, dominating the city’s skyline from its perch on the precipitous crag of Castle Rock. During its stormy history of sieges and wars it has evolved from its earliest beginnings in the 11th century to the present-day national monument. Overnight for two nights in the Open Arms, located on the village green at Dirleton and overlooking Dirleton Castle. Gather this evening for our welcome dinner party. (D)
Day 3 Tour of Linlithgow, Rosslyn Chapel and Borthwick Castle: Today’s visit includes two diverse and spectacular sites. The royal palace of Linlithgow was the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots. Rebuilt by James V in a vast and ornate style, the building contains a Great Hall that is 94 feet long. Rosslyn Chapel is a tiny 15th century church with architectural treasures hidden within. Every conceivable roof rib, capital, boss, arch and corbel is encrusted with human and animal figures, moldings and foliage, and the exquisite work of the mason is enhanced by the plainness and severity of the late medieval Scottish architecture. Tonight’s gala dinner party will be held in Borthwick Castle, a romantic, privately owned castle standing on the summit of a knoll on the periphery of the Borders immortalized by Sir Walter Scott. It was built in 1430, was once the refuge of Mary Queen of Scots and the Earl of Borthwell, and was besieged by Oliver Cromwell in 1650. The atmosphere and grandeur of its romantic past has been lovingly cherished and maintained. Dinner in the main banquet hall is sure to be a highlight of the trip. (B/D)
Day 4: Melrose Abbey is the site of the first Cistercian settlement in Scotland. Unlike its Cistercian predecessor it is far from austere - greatly and lavishly ornamented with capitals, bosses and corbels carved with fruit, flowers and foliage. Humorous additions to the masonry include human figurines around the exterior walls - the cook with his ladle, the mason with his mallet, the fat monk, and, flying high on a gargoyle - a bagpipe playing pig! This church represents the high point in 15th-century Scottish decorated architecture. Jedburgh Abbey was first built by King David I of Scotland in 1138, but was probably the site of a Northumbrian church from at least the 8th century. By 1154, the priory had become an abbey and was populated by Augustinian, or ‘black’ canons. It was fought over by the English and Scots at many points in its history, but it remained in the hands of the Augustinians until the later 16th century when the Reformation brought an end to its attachment to the Catholic Church. The village of Blanchland was first mentioned in 1165, the date of the founding of the abbey. Overnight for the next two nights at The Lord Crew Arms Inn. Built in the mid-13th century, this atmospheric inn was formed from the abbot's lodgings, guest-house and kitchens. It once was the home of General Tom Forster, who led the doomed Jacobite rebellion in 1715. He was reputed to have hidden in a priest's hole near one of the huge, walk-in fireplaces before fleeing to France, and the ghost of his sister Dorothy still asks guests to take a message to him in exile. (B/D)
Day 5: Today we will walk Hadrian's Wall, the northernmost frontier of the Roman Empire. At Housesteads Fort, a Roman garrison, the foundations of most of the buildings and defenses are well preserved. We will see the small heated rooms of the commandant's house and the latrines (with running water) used by the soldiers. Vindolanda has reconstructions of turrets from the Wall and a museum that contains unique organic remains such as leather shoes and wooden writing tablets that have been excavated on the site. This afternoon and if time permits, enjoy a tour of Blanchland village. (B/D)
Day 6: This morning’s drive takes us to Barnard Castle, a ruined Norman castle built in the 12th century, and Fountains Abbey, the largest monastic ruin in Britain founded by the Cistercian monks in 1132. The monks were great brewers (though they preached temperance and moderation to others) and the production in this great religious house was prodigious. Their brewhouse produced sixty barrels of strong ale every ten days! Theakston’s brewery is a one of the most successful of the English ‘Real Ales.’ Since 1827, the Theakston’s have been brewing their ales at the Black Bull Inn and Brewhouse. Today, they produce millions of barrels of wonderfully creamy bitter sold throughout the UK. Overnight for one night at a traditional coaching inn, the Golden Lion. The inn serves Hambleton Bitter, Theakston Best Bitter, XB, and Old Peculier. (B/D)
Day 7: York is a city that first gained prominence under the Romans. Known as the city of Eboracuem, York was the second city of Roman Britain beyond London. At the beginning of the fourth century AD, the soldiers of York and Hadrian’s Wall raised a young man called Constantine to the title of emperor and formed a rebel army that swarmed through Europe making Constantine the sole ruler of the Western Empire. Constantine became St. Constantine the Great, and was instrumental in making Christianity the official religion of Rome. After the fall of Roman Britain, York became the capital of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria. This came to an end when the Vikings attacked and settled in York, renaming the city Jorvik. We will be visiting the beautiful York Minster Cathedral, a Norman building sitting on the ruins of Roman York. We will examine the still standing Roman walls, and journey through the 15th century streets of the town. Lunch will be found in one of its many medieval pubs. On leaving York and time permitting, we will visit Byland Abbey, a 12th century Cistercian monastery in the gorgeous Yorkshire Dales. Continue to Stamford and overnight for two nights at an 18th century town house hotel, the Garden House Hotel. (B/D)
Day 8: Sites dating from the end of the ice age are quite rare in Britain, but today we will visit the caves of Creswell Crags, occupied by hunters over ten thousand years ago. We continue to Flag Fen, where residents in 1350 BC fortified their meadows from neighboring communities by constructing a long defensive wall using hundreds of thousands of timbers. Return to Stamford this afternoon for some time to explore the town. Located less than a mile from the hotel is The Burhley House and Park, one of the largest and grandest houses of the first Elizabethan Age. (B/D)
Day 9: Our exploration of Cambridge will include the King's College Chapel. We will continue to St. Albans, named for the first Christian martyr in England and the successor of the Roman city of Verulamium. We will view a Roman theater that is unique to Great Britain, part of the 3rd century city walls, and the museum with its splendid collection of mosaics, wall paintings and recreated Roman rooms. Overnight at The George Inn in Dorchester-in-Thames. (B/D)
Day 10: The Uffington White Horse is cut into the white chalk that lies under the grassy slopes. After visiting the stone circle and henge at Avebury, we will see West Kennett Long Barrow, a shared tomb where we can enter the chambers and examine the prehistoric architecture. This afternoon we will view Silbury Hill, the largest man-made earthwork in Europe. Overnight for the next two nights in Salisbury at The Red Lion Hotel, originally built around 1220 in order to house the draughtsmen working on the new Cathedral of the town. (B/D)
Day 11: We begin today with an exploration of Cadbury Castle, an atmospheric Iron Age and early medieval hill-fort overlooking the Somerset Levels. Cadbury Castle was known until recently as Cadbury Camelot, and local tradition maintains that the hill was the site of King Arthur’s fabled castle. Archaeological work on the hill confirms that the hill was extremely important. The Romans attacked the hill in the first century AD, and left its inhabitant in a mass grave within the entryway to the fort. It later became the site of a Romano-Celtic temple and, eventually, the home of a British king — perhaps Arthur himself! Next we visit Cerne Abbas Giant which is a 150-foot-tall image of a man carved into a chalk hillside. The Giant has traditionally been seen as the Iron Age representation of a Celtic god, but more recent work suggests it is an act of 17th century graffiti portraying an indecent Oliver Cromwell. We finish our day with a visit to Maiden Castle, one of the finest prehistoric hill-forts in Britain covering 115 acres. (B/D)
Day 12: Today we visit our two final sites. Old Sarum was successively an Iron Age British hill-fort known to the Romans as Sorviodunum, a Roman and Saxon town, and a Norman fortress and cathedral. As a key town in the ancient Saxon kingdom of Wessex, it was important for the Normans to control this site. Because of this, Henry I of England, son of William the Conquerer, used the site as a royal residence for much of his reign. After leaving Old Sarum, we will travel to the most popular archaeological attraction in Britain, Stonehenge. The huge sandstone monoliths that make up this Neolithic monument formed a ceremonial center oriented towards the summer solstice and other astronomical points. Most theories suggest that it was used as an agricultural calendar, though recent work shows that it was connected to a wider spiritual landscape including the stone circle at Avebury. After Stonehenge, we finish our archaeological journey with a visit to the historic city of Winchester for lunch a tour of its marvelous Cathedral and Great Hall — where King Arthur’s Round Table supposedly hangs and the first parliament was held. Drive to London and overnight at the 5-star Radisson Edwardian Heathrow Hotel, located only five minutes from the airport. (B/D)
Day 13: Morning flight to USA. (B)
"The England trip was great! It exceeded my elevated expectations." - Marks Hinton
“When you have lost your inns drown your empty selves, for you will have lost the last of England” - Hilaire Belloc
REAL ALE is the champagne of the beer world. Also known as traditional draught beer or cask-conditioned beer, it is a top-fermented beer that undergoes a natural secondary fermentation in the cask and is served without applied gas pressure. Most “Real Ale” pubs serve by a simple suction pump (a beer engine) that draws beer from the cask in the cellar when the hand-pump on the bar is pulled. The methods of brewing “real ale” produce beers of great complexity with rich fruity and hoppy aromas and flavors.
James Bruhn received his BA in anthropology and history from the University of Colorado (Magna Cum Laude), and his MA and PhD in British Roman Archaeology from the University of Durham. Originally from the Northeast of Scotland, he is a specialist on Roman Frontiers in Northern Britain and a fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland and Newcastle upon Tyne. Dr. Bruhn has spoken at numerous academic conferences in North America and Europe, has authored a scholarly book on Roman Archaeology and has written book chapters in several scholarly publications including the Seventy Great Inventions of the Ancient World by Brian Fagan. He has excavated along the Antonine Wall and has tutored small groups on his specialty. Additionally, Dr. Bruhn has organized and been the speaker in several conferences about Roman Britain. His knowledge, enthusiasm and passion about the history and archaeology of Great Britain is contagious.
September 17 - 29, 2010
$8,495.00 (per person, double occupancy) includes roundtrip international airfare from JFK (in 2010, air not included in 2009), all hotels, meals as noted, entry fees, and all ground transportation. Price is based upon the exchange rate for the British pound not going over 1.75. If a fluctuation raises the pound, the final price may go up.
Single Supplement: $895.00. Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement will be charged.
Cost Does Not Include: A separate donation as outlined below; all lunches; meals as noted; all beverages, food not on regular menus; passport fees; airport departure taxes; tips and gratuities; laundry; excess baggage charges and other items of a personal nature.
Fuel Surcharges: Far Horizons must pass on price increases when additional fuel charges are levied.
Donation Checks: As a tour company that benefits from the cultural and natural riches of our destinations, we have a policy of donating to the scientific and cultural projects and museums we visit. This has created a bond between Far Horizons and the academic and local communities that has helped us establish an extensive list of lecturers and contacts in each of our destinations. We ask that each participant write a check to the noteworthy project we designate. The donation amount is $150.00 per person and is made by check directly to the donation project. Note that the donation is required as part of your registration for the trip and that it is non-refundable. We will be designating a donation project for this trip shortly.
A deposit of $500.00 and the separate donation check for $150.00 (made out to the designated project) are required along with your registration form. Final payment is due 75 days before departure. Upon receipt of your deposit and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a tour bulletin containing travel information. Prior to the trip, we will send links to various websites of pertinent interest to the trip. Click here to download our Registration Form.
Cancellations received in writing at least 75 days before departure will result in an administrative fee of $250.00 per person. Cancellations received less than 75 days before departure will not receive a refund. If for any reason you are unable to complete the tour, we will not reimburse any fees. Registrants are strongly advised to buy travel insurance that includes trip cancellation.
Hotels and MealsAll meals and overnights will be in carefully chosen traditional and unspoiled pubs and inns, where we will be able to touch pint mugs with the local people while you savor delicious regional delicacies, washed down with the region's best representatives of the British brewer's art. The hotels and pubs listed in the brochure might change; the ambiance will not.
Changes in our itinerary, accommodations, and transportation schedules may occur. A good book to read as well as a flexible attitude and a sense of humor are essential.
The private tours of archaeological sites and talks by specialists are scheduled in advance and include a donation to each. Specialists working at these sites are excited about showing their work to interested enthusiasts. However, please be aware that there may be times when the director or a member of the staff may not be onsite when our groups arrive due to other commitments.
THIS PUB CRAWL CULTURAL TOUR IS LIMITED TO 7 PARTICIPANTS
