The Dodecanese Islands of Greece that hug the coast of Turkey and the southwest shoreline of Asia Minor are not only visually striking but offer the traveler a glimpse into the intriguing and varied civilizations which have existed in this region for millennia. The unsurpassed means to see and fully appreciate this region and its unique history is by sea. And to travel aboard a charming Turkish wooden gulet (yacht) with only seven other participants offers a truly memorable 16-day journey.
Beginning in the Greek islands – Kos , Nisyros, Tilos, Simi, Rhodes – we see that even the smallest island boasts striking Byzantine churches and medieval castles. This little-explored and remote part of Greece located in the southeastern Aegean Sea has a long history – beginning in prehistoric times with influences ranging from the Bronze-Age Minoans to the Italians – quite separate from that of mainland Greece. Throughout their rich past, the Dodecanese have been part of the infamous Delian League, the 18th district of Rome, the Byzantine Empire, and the Ottoman Empire, prior to being ceded to Greece by the British post-World War II. A highlight will be our exploration of the medieval city of Rhodes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, still surrounded by formidable fortification walls.
Then cross the waters again to sail along the mountainous, forested southern coast of Turkey. Strewn on this coastline are tiny fishing villages and the spectacular remains of the Lykia civilization that spans more than 3,000 years of history – many of the sites virtually inaccessible from land. We explore Letoon and Xanthos, both UNESCO World Heritage sites, and amongst the oldest standing monumental architecture in Turkey. Both cities were members of the Lykian League, an ancient federation of cities believed to have been the first union in the world with democratic principles which later inspired the American Constitution. There are also the natural wonders – secluded beaches, pine forests, and massive basaltic cliffs dropping to the sea, and last but not least, the bliss of bathing, à la Aphrodite, in the cool, clear waters of the Aegean.
| "When I want to picture paradise, I just think of the days we spent onboard our gulet and I know it cannot be better than that." - Barbara Matula |
ITINERARY:
(B)
breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner |
|
Day 1: Depart the USA for Istanbul.
Day 2: Arrive in Istanbul and transfer to our flight to Bodrum. Upon arrival, board our yacht. This evening, we cruise to a nearby bay and enjoy dinner aboard our yacht. (D)
Day 3: Dominating the harbor is the Castle of St. Peter, begun in 1402 by the Knights Hospitallers of St. John as a hospital for pilgrims to Jerusalem. We return to Bodrum this morning and enter the fortress, now the Bodrum Underwater Archaeological Museum. Here, accompanied by a staff member of the Institute of Underwater Archaeology, view a wide range of fascinating underwater findings, many brought to modern day viewers from thousands of years ago and displayed throughout the Castle in a myriad of atmospheric halls and galleries. Clinging to the coast of Asia Minor, the islands of the Dodecanese group in the eastern Aegean are beautiful and varied. We cruise across the straits separating Turkey and these islands to Kos where we will clear Greek customs. The Knights of St. John, who were established on Rhodes, took control of Kos in 1315 AD. A century later, they built the superb fortress that stands today at the entrance of Kos harbor where we will overnight. Breakfast and lunch will be onboard; dinner will be on our own to enjoy a local taverna in Kos. (B/L)
Day 4: In antiquity Kos was renowned for its healing Temple of Asklepios, founded after the death of the famed physician Hippocrates. The Asklepion functioned as a hospital for about a thousand years, finally falling into disrepair. This morning, we will pull anchor and motor to Nisyros. According to Greek mythology, Nisyros was formed during the battle between the Giants and the Gods. Mandraki, the capital of Nisyros, is built at the foot of a steep hill which was fortified in the Middle Ages. To the northwest of the capital clinging to the tip of a tall rocky hill lies the Monastery of the Madonna of the Caves (Panagia Spiliani), the patroness of the island. Built in 1600, it is linked with many traditions and has a lovely 18th century iconostasis. Yet another castle erected by the Knights of St. John looms above the small town. A highlight of the island is the still active volcanic crater in the center. We will enjoy dinner in the old part of Nisyros town. Overnight onboard in Nisyros. (B/L/D)
Day 5: Our morning cruise takes us to Tilos. According to legend, it was named after the youngest son of Alia and Apollo who collected herbs from the island hoping to cure his mother when she became ill. After her recovery, he returned to the island and established a sanctuary in honor of Apollo and Poseidon in order to express his appreciation. It is an unspoiled Aegean island with nineteen beaches, twelve mountains, seven medieval castles, a Byzantine monastery and two hundred churches, a cave full of natural discoveries, a village that is a declared a cultural monument, one hundred bird species, hundreds of wild flowers and herbs, and five hundred residents. We will have time to explore the island including St. Panteleimon Monastery, originally built in 1470. The monastery’s zenith was reached during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as it printed bank notes used on the island, owned vast tracts of land with animal herds and served as a key economic as well as spiritual center. We will see a walled courtyard leading to the church whose inspiring, centuries-old frescoes have been restored after the removal of the plaster covering by the Turkish occupation, and the 18th century wood-carved iconostasis. In Megalo Chorio view the Fortress of Misaria, a medieval building of 1366 founded by the Knights of Saint John. At the foot of the fortress we can see the preserved vestiges of a Byzantine settlement and several 13th and 14th century churches. The Church of Archaengel Mihail Taxiarchis contains large silver icons originally from the fortress. (B/L/D)
Day 6: We move on to the rocky, mountainous island of Simi, northwest of Rhodes, and one of the most beautiful of the Dodecanese. Most of the inhabitants live off sponge diving. The deep harbor is like an amphitheatre, with multi-colored two- and three-story 19th century neo-classical grand homes of the former sponge trading merchants, and churches with colored domes climbing up the steep hillsides. The high hill overlooking the harbor is Kastro, with the original settlement of Chorio and dominated by the Church of Megali Panagia containing beautiful frescoes and the ruins of the castle. Dinner is on our own to explore the town's restaurants. (B/L)
Day 7: We will spend two days on Rhodes, the island that has always been an important strategic stronghold. Its position on the vital trade routes in the eastern Mediterranean has greatly influenced the course of its history. Protected by impregnable 14th-century walls, the medieval city is renowned for its archaeological treasures and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Order of St. John of Jerusalem occupied Rhodes from 1309 to 1523 and set about transforming the city into a stronghold. It subsequently came under Turkish and Italian rule. Our exploration of the island takes in many impressive sites. With the Palace of the Grand Masters, the Great Hospital and the Street of the Knights, the Upper Town is one of the most beautiful urban centers of the Gothic period. In the Lower Town, Gothic architecture coexists with mosques, public baths and other buildings dating from the Ottoman period. The Archaeological Museum contains a large collection including the tombstones of many of the crusading Knights of St. John who once made this island their own. Dinner is on our own this evening. (B/L)
Day 8: Today’s exploration takes us outside the walled city to other parts of the island. On the southeastern part of the island, Lindos is guarded by medieval walls which were constructed by the Knights of St. John in the 13th century. Within them stands the ancient Acropolis of Lindos, on the brink of a precipice 400 feet above the sea. Proceed on foot uphill, to the great staircase leading from the Hellenistic Portico to the Acropolis and Temple of Athena. From the Acropolis, marvel at the breathtaking views covering the great expanse of the Aegean Sea and St. Paul’s bay, where the apostle cast anchor during his historic voyage to Ephesus. Close to the promontory of Agios Minas (the Ancient Mylantio) lies the third of the island's ancient cities - Kamiros. This was one of the three large Doric cities of the island, which united with Ialyssos and Lindos in the 5th century B.C. to create the powerful city - state of Rhodes. Lunch is on our own. Dinner will be onboard. (B/D)
Day 9: Cruise to Marmaris in order to clear Turkish customs. Then it's on to the village of Dalyan. Here we climb aboard a small boat to motor down the meandering Dalyan River. As we putt-putt between the reed-lined banks of the river, we will see magnificent royal temple tombs cut into the cliff face towering above. At the end of our ride is Caunos, an important Carian fishing center in ancient times. Although initially settled during the 9th century BC, the buildings standing today are Greco-Roman and include a Byzantine church. (B/L/D)
Day 10: This morning’s sail takes us further south with free time for swimming and relaxing. In the afternoon, a 45-minute hike takes us up a hill with incredible views of the Aegean below to ancient Lydae. Off the beaten path and rarely visited, the city features mausolea, temple walls, cisterns, Corinthian columns and inscribed tablets from the Roman and Byzantine periods. This is one of the regions visited by Cleopatra. She was here twice, once in 46 BC and once again in 32 BC with Marc Antony. (B/L/D)
Day 11: The Gulf of Fethiye is one of the most scenic areas in Turkey. Protected by the jutting peaks of the snow-capped Taurus Mountains, hundreds of secluded coves and bays lie along the shoreline and the emerald water is sprinkled with a multitude of tiny islands. We will spend the morning exploring these hidden inlets with plenty of time to swim. Dock in Fethiye this afternoon. Formerly known as Telmessus, the town has its roots deep into the past. Probably originally settled by the local Lycians more than three thousand years ago, today the bustling village spreads along the most protected (and loveliest) anchorage within Fethiye Bay. Towering over the city are imposing tombs cut into the rock of the cliff-faces, and the community’s winding streets curve around still-standing ancient sarcophagi. (B/L/D)
Day 12: We sadly leave our yacht this morning and drive south to visit three important cities of the Lykian federation. Letoon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was a shrine dedicated to the goddess, Leto, and her children by Zeus - Apollo and Artemis - the principal deities of Lykia. The sanctuary became the place of assembly during the height of the Lykian League and national festivals were celebrated here. In Xanthos, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fine theater is dominated by monumental tombs. As we contemplate this captivating civilization from the theater's bleachers, the spicy aroma of wild sage and mint from nearby fields permeates the air. The lovely Nereid Monument in the British Museum comes from this site. We will be able to view a wealth of amazing items still in situ, including the Harpy Tomb and the Xanthian Obelisk. After the 4th century BC, nearby Patara was the capital of the Lykian Federation and its port. Today the harbor has completely silted in and the resulting five-mile-long beach is considered the most beautiful in southern Turkey. Over the centuries, the magnificent buildings have been covered by the blowing sand. Continue to Kalkan to overnight in the Hotel Harpy. (B/L/D)
Day 13: Today's explorations take us to two remote sites. Andriake is located at the extreme southeastern tip of the Yavu mountain region, where the ancient River Andrakos meets the Plain of Kale. The ancient harbor is now marshland. The Andrakos River flows down from its source passing an ancient water-mill and divides the town into north and south. The north town is mainly sand dunes with a still recognizable ruined church. Several buildings in the south town are in good condition including a warehouse, harbor wall, granarium (grain store), temple, market-place, parts of the harbor road, residences, water tanks, a number of churches and chapels. A wall surrounded the town and an aqueduct supplied water from the nearby karst spring. Then it’s on to Myra. The Eastern Roman emperor Theodosius II made Myra, ancient Demre, the capital of Byzantine Lykia until the city fell to the Arabs in 808. We will visit the ancient necropolis at Myra where hundreds of stunning tombs are cut into the cliff-face, many with finely carved reliefs of funeral scenes. But the fame of the city is primarily due to St. Nicholas, the Bishop of Myra in the 4th century AD. He is buried in the church dedicated to him, still standing today. Drive on to Antalya and overnight for two nights in the Hotel Doğan. Dinner is free to enjoy one of the city's fabulous restaurants. (B/L)
Day 14: Begin our explorations this morning at the Antalya Archaeological Museum, an architectural delight. Here we meet with the archaeologist in charge of restoring sculptures for a private talk and tour of the stunning marble sculptures from nearby Perge. In the afternoon, enjoy a walking tour of the kaleici which will give us the opportunity to study both the Ottoman and Roman architecture within this area. This picturesque quarter has won several national and international awards for its renovation. The charm of the ancient Roman and later Ottoman architectural styles has been maintained, with outdoor cafes, restaurants, hotels and shops still housed in the old buildings along the twisting cobblestoned streets. We will see a beautifully decorated three arched monumental Roman Gate built into the city wall to celebrate Emperor Hadrian’s visit in 130 A.D., the Karatay Medrese (theological college that exemplifies the best of Selcuk stone carvings, the elegant fluted minaret of the Yivli Minareli Mosque, and the 19th century Iskele Mosque that is built of cut stone and set on four pillars over a natural spring. Gather this evening in one of Antalya's fine restaurants for a gala dinner party. (B/L/D)
Day 15: Early morning flight back to Istanbul. Upon arrival, visit The Church of St. Saviour in Chora Monastery built between the 11th- and 14th-centuries. When restored, a striking series of mosaics and vibrant frescoes were found within the interior of the building belonging to the last great renaissance of Byzantine art. Lunch will be in the gardens of a restored wooden konak, or mansion, now a restaurant serving Imperial Ottoman cuisine. In the afternoon, walk through the Egyptian, or Spice Bazaar, and visit Rüstem Pasha Mosque, designed by Ottoman imperial architect Mimar Sinan for the husband of one of the daughters of Suleiman the Magnificent. This exquisite building is renowned for its delicate, tomato-red Iznik tiles of beautiful floral and geometric designs. Dinner is on our own. Overnight in the historic section of Istanbul. (B/L)
Day 16: Depart for the USA. (B)
STUDY LEADERS: Jeremy McInerney received his PhD from the University of California, Berkeley, in 1992. He is currently Associate Professor in the Department of Classical Studies at the University of Pennsylvania. A specialist in both Greek and Roman history, McInerney has published extensively on his subject. He is the author of The Folds of Parnassos: Land and Ethnicity in Ancient Phokise published by the University of Texas Press, consultant for What Life was Like in Ancient Greece for Time-Life Books, and a featured speaker on videos of full-length university lectures about the Greek World produced by The Teaching Company. McInerney is a recipient of the Ira Abrams Award for Distinguished Teaching, one of the University of Pennsylvania’s highest teaching honors. He is an exceptional teacher with a charming personality, wonderful sense of humor, and exceptional knowledge of ancient history and architecture.
Maud Burnett McInerney received her PhD from University of California, Berkeley, in Comparative Literature, and her BA in English, Latin and Greek from the University of Toronto. She is presently Associate Professor of English at Haverford College in Pennsylvania where she teaches courses in Medieval Studies, with an emphasis on iconography and early Christian culture. Dr. McInerney has also taught courses in Greek Mythology and reads Latin and Greek. Her book, Eloquent Virgins from Thecla to Joan of Arc, was published by Palgrave Press in 2003. Her recent research has concerned itself with Greek Christian writers in Asia Minor and contacts between Byzantium and the Holy Roman Empire in the ninth and tenth centuries. Dr. McInerney’s familiarity with the mythology and history of the ancient Mediterranean, and her enthusiasm for her subject will make traveling with her a very special experience.
TRIP DATES: June 18 – July 3, 2009
TRIP LAND COST: $9,995.00 (per person, double occupancy) includes all hotels; most meals (as listed in the itinerary); all entry fees; and yacht & ground transportation.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: International flights from North America to Istanbul; two Turkish domestic flights on Turkish Airlines; a tax-deductible check for $150.00 per person to ‘The Institute of Nautical Archaeology’, passport or visa fees; airport or departure taxes; beverages or food not included on regular menus; laundry; excess baggage charges; personal tips; alcoholic drinks; email, telephone and fax charges; or other items of a personal nature.
SINGLE SUPPLEMENT: $1495.00 Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement must be charged. NOTE: Only one single supplement is available on the yacht.
FUEL SURCHARGES: Far Horizons must pass on price increases for uncontrollable charges such as flights and other services due to additional fuel charges.
DONATION CHECKS: The cost of the trip does not include the separate donation check for $150.00 (per person) to ‘The Institute of Nautical Archaeology’. As a tour company that benefits from the historical, cultural and natural riches of our destinations, we have a policy of donating to scholars, archaeological and cultural projects, and museums in each of our destinations. This has created a bond with the academic community that allows you to gain an ‘insider’s view’ of work being done in each country.
REGISTRATION: A deposit of $500.00 and a separate check for $150.00 to the INA are required along with your registration form. Final payment is due 75 days before departure. Upon receipt of your deposit and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a tour bulletin containing travel information. An information book designed for this trip, including maps of archaeological sites and articles of pertinent interest will be sent upon receipt of final payment.
NOTE ABOUT ITINERARY CHANGES: Changes in our itinerary, accommodations and transportation schedules may occur. A good book to read as well as a flexible attitude and a sense of humor are essential.
CANCELLATION AND REFUNDS: Cancellations received in writing at least 75 days before departure will result in an administrative fee of $250.00 per person. Cancellations received less than 75 days before departure will not receive a refund. If for any reason you are unable to complete the tour, we will not reimburse any fees. Registrants are strongly advised to buy travel insurance that includes trip cancellation.
PRIVATE TOURS OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES: The private tours of archaeological sites and talks by specialists are scheduled in advance and include a donation to each. Specialists working at these sites are excited about showing their work to interested enthusiasts. However, please be aware that there may be times when the director or a member of the staff may not be onsite when our groups arrive due to other commitments.
LIMITED TO 8 PARTICIPANTS
