WESTERN TURKEY
Including the March 29, 2006 Solar Eclipse

Hos Geldiniz – ‘welcome’ is the most frequently heard word in Turkey. First-time visitors are usually surprised to discover that the country’s main attraction is the charming and friendly people who receive guests with almost medieval gallantry and hospitality that is an integral part of the Turkish culture.

ITINERARY:
(B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner

Day 1: (March 20): Depart USA.

(March 21): Arrive Istanbul and transfer to the hotel. After lunch in a local restaurant, we will walk through the Hippodrome, the scene of Byzantine chariot races and athletic events, and where the Emperors celebrated their victories and executed their enemies. Then it’s on to the Blue Mosque, built partly on the site once occupied by the Byzantine imperial palace. The Mosque of Sultan Ahmet I, it took seven years to build. The building has an enormous central dome supported by four huge freestanding pillars, and six fluted minarets. Dinner is free. Overnight for four nights in the Daphne Hotel, housed within a restored Ottoman mansion located within the historic area of the city. (L)

Day 3: (March 22): The first systematic attempt in the Ottoman Empire to collect and preserve the nation’s antiquities began in 1846 when Fethi Ahmet Pasa, son-in-law of Sultan Mahmut II gathered antiquities from all over the Empire and stored them in the church of St. Irene. In 1874 the objects were transferred to the Cinili Kosk. During the next decade attempts were made to identify and catalogue the contents and to legally control the outflow of valued objects from the country. In 1881, Hamdi bey was made director, and for the next three decades he enlarged the original building, and established the Istanbul Archaeology Museum as one of the great treasure houses of Europe. In the 17th and 18th centuries it became fashionable for high-ranking people of Istanbul to own a summer home on the Bosphorus, the sinuous straits separating Europe from Asia. These wooden yalis, as they are called, were extremely beautiful and elegant, of a perfection of structure and a refinement of decoration that are the supreme examples of their architects’ and painters’ genius. This afternoon, travel by private boat up the Bosphorus to view these lovely wooden villas and elegant marble palaces along the shore. Tonight’s festive dinner party will be in one of the fine restaurants along the shore of the Bosphorus. (B/L/D)

Day 4: (March 23): Istanbul is the only city in the world built on two continents in the old part of the city are located most of the sites of historical interest. In 1468, Mehmet the Conqueror began a summer palace, Topkapi Sarai, on what was formerly the Greek acropolis. Later sultans added to the royal residence, and Suleyman the Magnificent made it his permanent home. The estate includes lovely gardens, the council chambers of government, and the harem, where the sultan's family lived. As you pass through the Imperial Gate into the First Court, you will see St. Irene, the Byzantine Church of Divine Peace. It was one of the first Christian churches built in the old town of Byzantium within the apse are ancient mosaics, possibly dating form the time of Justinian. The Yerebatan Cistern, built in the 6th-century during the reign of Justinian, supplied water to the nearby palace complex. In the 16th-century Ottoman engineers channeled the water into steaming Turkish baths, many of which still function today. Aya Sofya, the first church of Christianity, was begun in the 2nd century AD by Constantine the Great. Truly one of the great buildings of the world, it served as the cathedral of Constantinople and was the center of the Byzantine Empire for almost a thousand years. For nearly five centuries after the Turkish Conquest it ranked first among the imperial mosques of Istanbul, and today still dominates the skyline of the old city as it has for more than 14 centuries. Tonight's dinner will be in Kumkapi, a delightful neighborhood where seafood restaurants abound and musicians entertain with lively music. (B/L/D)

Day 5: (March 24): We begin today at the Church of Saint Saviour in Chora Monastery, or Kariye Museum, built between the 11th- and 14th-centuries. The mosaics and frescoes inside are masterpieces of "the Renaissance" of Byzantine art. We continue to Suleymaniye, the mosque of Suleyman the Magnificent that dominates the skyline of Stamboul (Old Istanbul). This magnificent edifice is considered the finest creation of Sinan, the greatest of the Ottoman architects. We will dine on classical Ottoman cuisine for lunch, in a restaurant housed within a 16th-century soup kitchen built by Sultan Suleyman. Thousands of shops, a mosque, a school, a post office and police station are all housed underneath the vast covered Grand Bazaar. Within this maze of shops is a bountiful selection of all of Turkey's crafts: leather items, hand beaten copper and brass, intricate carpets and nomadic kilims (flat weave rugs), exquisite gold and antique silver jewelry. Dinner is free to enjoy one of Istanbul’s fine restaurants. (B/L)

Day 6: (March 25): Transfer to the Istanbul airport for our early morning flight to Izmir. Upon arrival, drive to Kusadasi. Of all the cities of ancient Turkey, Ephesus is the best preserved and the most often visited. Dedicated to the virgin goddess of the chase, the city is the site of the Temple of Diana (Artemis), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and The Church of Saint John, where the disciple spoke. After visiting the city of Ephesus, we will walk through the Church and the nearby Selcuk Museum, containing marvelous artifacts found in Ephesus. Dinner and overnight in the Kismet Hotel. (B/L/D)

Day 7: (March 26): Depart Kusadaci and begin driving south along the coast. Along the way stop to see two spectacular temples. The temple at Didyma housed the oracle that declared Alexander the Great to be the son of Zeus. Euromus contains a classically proportioned temple with columns still supporting the crossbeams. Continue to Bodrum and overnight in the Four Reasons Hotel. Dinner will be in a local seafood restaurant. (B/L/D)

Day 8: (March 27): In recent years the site of the ancient city of Aphrodisius has excited worldwide interest because of the spectacular discoveries made there by an international team of archaeologists. They have brought to light the substantial remains of a theater, an odeum, temples, baths, streets and public squares, a building that may have been a bishop’s palace, and several Byzantine churches. Within this ancient city, dedicated to the goddess of love, have been found monuments and statues of great beauty, many of Aphrodite herself. Many of these sculptures, probably created locally, are on exhibit in the site’s museum. If available, a staff archaeologist will give us a private tour of the excavations and take us into the storeroom, normally closed to the public, to view the beautiful sculpture found here. Continue to Pamukkale a dazzling white plateau that rises 400 feet in a curtain of stalagmites and shallow ponds forming an immense frozen cascade. The towering cliffs have been formed by calcium in the hot mineral water that solidifies as it gushes from countless underground springs. Just as today, the people of the ancient site of Hierapolis constructed spas around the healing waters, and at least three Roman Emperors came to enjoy them. The grandeur of the 2nd century baths show the importance of the site. Overnight in the Colessea Hotel. (B/L/D)

Day 9: (March 28): Straddling a rocky mountain valley and protected by three impenetrable walls, Termessos was built by the Pisidians before the time of Christ. The fierce independence of these people was shown when they chose to build in such a high remote place. This was the only city never conquered by Alexander the Great. In 333BC, Alexander swept eastwards with all cities falling to him; then he came up against a city so impregnable and well-defended that after camping below it for one night he decided to waste no more time and moved on. The ruins of the city, despite being overgrown, have a grandeur rarely equaled. The path to the city winds up the side of the mountain, passes through a gate in the outer fortification, and finally opens to well-preserved, monumental buildings constructed of finely-carved large granite blocks. Drive on to Antalya and visit the Antalya Archaeological Museum, an architectural delight. The artifacts contained within are from the many nearby ancient cities. The Roman port of Antalya is one of Turkey's loveliest cities.  The principal resort on the Mediterranean, it is magnificently situated atop 150 foot-tall cliffs overlooking the sea. This picturesque quarter has won several national and international awards for its recent renovation. The charm of the ancient Roman and later Ottoman architectural styles has been maintained, with outdoor cafes, restaurants, hotels and shops still housed in the old buildings along the twisting streets. Tonight's dinner party is held an outdoor restaurant overlooking the ancient harbor and shadowed by a 2000-year-old Roman wall. Spend the next two nights in a restored 19th-century Ottoman mansion, now the charming Dogan Hotel in the old port section of (B/L/D)

Day 10: (March 29): Today is the day of Eclipse! We will drive northeast of Antalya to near Akseki where the path of the total solar eclipse will pass directly overhead. The area’s southern location and the beneficial effects of the terrain make it one of the sunniest places in Turkey. There will be 3 minutes and 45 seconds of totality. (B/L/D)
> Total solar eclipse path through Antalya and Akseki
> Global path of the moon's shadow
> Possible sighting of heavenly bodies at total eclipse

Day 11:  (March 30): A pastoral scene greets us on our drive into the Taurus Mountains along ageless caravan trails. Stop to examine beautifully carved, 13th-century caravansaries built by Seljuk Turks, and in Konya, visit Mevlana Tekke, the tomb of the mystic Jala ad-Din ar-Rumi, better known as Mevlana, the founder of the whirling dervishes. Continue to the Cappadocia region. Overnight for three nights in the Cappadocia Urgup Cave House, a whimsical hotel that depicts the charm of the area with rooms that have been cut from the living rock. Each of the spacious rooms has been individually and elegantly decorated with Ottoman furniture, antiques and crafts of the region. (B/L/D)

Day 12: (March 31): Formed millions of years ago by volcanic eruption and eroded by wind and weather, the eerie caves, cones and "fairy chimneys" of Cappadocia form one of the world's most fantastic sites. Here, early Christians carved monasteries and churches from the living rock and magnificent frescoes depicting Biblical scenes are still visible. We will spend the day exploring the rock-cut churches and monasteries of this peculiar and lovely landscape. The largest concentration of accessible rock churches can be found in Goreme. Many are located in a large natural amphitheater bounded by nearly vertical cliffs and opening into a steep-sided green valley. From the summit of the citadel at Uchisar with its spectacular vistas of the surrounding countryside, we plunge to the underground city of Kaymakli, a maze of tunnels and rooms at least eight stories deep. Several thousand people were lodged here in the eighth and ninth centuries, and defended their refuge from Eastern invadors by rolling immense boulders to block the entrance. (B/L/D)

Day 13: (April 1): The Soganli Valley is one of the most attractive places in central Anatolia. Quiet and unspoiled, the valley has been spared the excessive commercialisation that mars some of the better known centers in the area. Its monasteries and churches are hollowed out, not from the cliff face, but from outdrops of rock between the river and the steep, barren slopes of the mesa. It has been estimated that there were originally 150 churches here, but many have been filled in or turned into dove cotes. Spend the morning exploring the area. As you return to your hotel in the afternoon, stop in Mustafapasa. Originally a Greek village, this tiny village is filled with lovely homes built in typical Greek style. To visit the 500-year-old Greek church, Ayios Vasilios, you must find the gatekeeper and ask him to open the door for you. The church is built into the cliff face and contains colorful frescoes of St. Basil. (B/L/D)

Day 14: (April 2): Drive to Ankara and Visit the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, set within a splendid restored bazaar and contains a priceless collection of Hittite art. The 7th-century citadel towering above the city is one of the best surviving Byzantine forts. Lunch within its walls in Zenger Pasa Restaurant housed within an old Ottoman house. In the afternoon return to Istanbul. Dinner is on our own. Overnight in the Daphne Hotel. (B/L)

Day 15: (April 3): Transfer to the airport in time for our return flight to the USA. (B

(B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner

STUDY LEADER: Umit Isin received his degree in archaeology from the University of Ankara in 1987. As a specialist in ancient geography and architecture, he has worked on archaeological projects throughout Turkey, including Arykanda, Caunos, Habibusagi, Lykia and Pisidia. Umit has been leading archaeological groups through Turkey since 1987. His intimate knowledge of his country, his expertise in its fascinating archaeological heritage, and his wonderful personality make him an ideal trip leader.

2007 TRIP DATES: No trip currently scheduled

2007 TRIP COST:
(per person, double occupancy)
includes roundtrip air from New York and two Turkish domestic flights on Turkish Airlines, all hotels, and most meals (as noted in brochure).

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: passports, all beverages, food not on regular menus, laundry, excess baggage charges, personal tips, alcoholic drinks, or departure taxes.

2007 SINGLE SUPPLEMENT:
Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement will be charged.

HOTELS: In keeping with the theme of our trips, hotels are chosen to depict the charm characterizing the Turkish culture. Where available, they are restored historical buildings - elegant Ottoman mansions furnished with period antiques; bed-and-breakfast style inns filled with lovely weavings, carpets and kilims, and handmade crafts; beautiful cut-stone Selcuk caravanserai originally built for camel caravans, and other unique accommodations too small for "tour groups". Of course, all rooms have private bathrooms.

MEALS: Wherever possible, meals will be in charming restaurants instead of in your hotel. Breakfast is Continental (fresh bread, cheese and coffee or tea).

PRIVATE TOURS OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES: We have made arrangements with the director (or a member of the staff) on several archaeological projects to talk with our groups. However, please be aware that, due to other commitments, there may be times when they are not onsite when our groups arrive. 

RESERVATIONS: A deposit of $500.00, and a separate check for $50.00 made out to the Institute of Nautical Archaeology, is required along with your completed and signed registration form. Final payment is due 75 days before departure (January 4, 2006).

Upon receipt of your deposit and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a clothing and equipment list. An information book designed for this trip, including maps of archaeological sites and articles of pertinent interest, will be sent upon receipt of final payment.

LIMITED TO 16 PARTICIPANTS