Guatemala & El Salvador: Lost Cities of the Ancient Maya Tour

An early morning flight takes us to Flores, Petén, where an “African Queen” boat ride takes us through lovely tropical waterways to the Maya city of Aguateca. Eons ago, a huge fissure split the area, and the ancient Maya built a bridge across this immense crack in the earth that still stands today. While Aguateca had been a military refuge for centuries, in the early 8th century it became a twin capital with Dos Pilas.

After the fall of Dos Pilas in 761 AD, it became the main royal capital for the last king of this dynasty, Tan Te’ K’inich, ruling until the city was overrun by enemies in a fiery cataclysm. Aguateca was the last center in the Petéx-Batún to fall. We then motor up a primeval lagoon to Punta de Chimino, where the ancient Maya built a settlement on the tip of a peninsula jutting into the mighty Petéx-Batún Lagoon. Our home for the next two nights is Chiminos Lodge, a series of lovely bungalows built within the site center. (Chiminos Lodge only has five large bungalows, and singles may not be available. (B/L/D)

Our route to Dos Pilas, capital of the ancient Petéx-Batún confederacy, takes us by truck (and perhaps by foot) through six miles of jungle. Recent excavations show that at the end of the classic period hastily-built fortification walls were erected around the city’s center, and some actually climb up and over the temples in order to protect the most sacred areas. Hundreds of spear points found within the walls suggest intense warfare, and the inscriptions on recently discovered hieroglyphic stairways tell the story of an audacious 21-year-old prince of Tikal, B’ajlaj Chan K’awil, who in 648 AD defeated Tikal’s army and established Dos Pilas as his ‘royal court in exile.’

Through military conquest and marriage alliances, he and his descendants gained control of much of southwest Petén until his grandson was ousted from Dos Pilas in 761 AD by angry former vassals. Archaeological work has proved that “blood was the mortar of ancient Maya life” (to quote Dr. Linda Schele), and the city-states were constantly at war to acquire royal victims needed for blood sacrifice to the gods. Picnic among the boldly carved monuments scattered throughout these memorable ruins before returning to the hotel for an afternoon walk through Punta de Chimino. More than 2,000 years ago, this fortified town was well protected from invasion by three moats and we will see these immense trenches and the islands created from the soil that was removed to create them. (B/L/D)

Today we visit the ceremonial center of Ceibal. Along the forest paths and within the site center beautifully carved monuments tell of the installation of a new ruler and an important gathering of leaders from nearby cities to commemorate this event. Finely carved stelae, or carved stone monuments, stand at the edge of the rainforest clearings and scarlet macaws can often be seen soaring along the ridges above the canopy. After a picnic lunch seated among these exquisite buildings, we will travel back down the river and drive to Lake Petén-Itzá and the Villa Maya, our home for two nights. (B/L/D)

Our drive east takes us to Yaxhá, a lovely site overlooking a lagoon of the same name. The location of terrible battles between Tikal and Naranjo in the 8th century, this huge center now lies in the shadow of a jungle canopy.

Today the remains of this once-great city are hidden under a lush rainforest canopy. Punctuated by the loud calls of howler monkeys proclaiming their dominance over the territory, this remote national park is teeming with wildlife, including a myriad of colorful and raucous birds. Nearby is Topoxté, an island site in the Yaxhá Lagoon that has been studied and consolidated by a joint Guatemala-German project. During excavations, huge jars filled with human bones were found along with an extensive tunnel system connecting chaltunes, and underground storage containers. (B/L/D)

Fly back to Guatemala City this morning and drive across the border into El Salvador to Suchitoto, a picturesque colonial town perched on a hillside overlooking a beautiful lake. Founded in 1542 by Spanish explorers, the historic center has been designated a national cultural heritage site. Overnight in the charming Casa 1800 Suchitoto. (B/L/D)

Begin this morning at Cihuatán, an immense Post-classic city located in the extreme south of the Mesoamerican cultural area. Built in the 8th century on a low ridge in the center of the Acelhuate Valley, it could control trade between the Caribbean, Honduras, and the rich river basins and coastal plain of El Salvador.

Located at the base of Guazapa Volcano, the fertile soils were utilized extensively for cacao as well as staples like corn, squash, and beans. The site was surely picked for defense as well as the Western Ceremonial Center is surrounded by a low wall that probably supported a wooden palisade. Return to Suchitoto which has a thriving arts scene. Named “Cultural Capital of El Salvador ” by the United Nations, Suchitoto attracts artists from all over the world to its annual art festivals. We will stop to browse galleries showcasing the works of El Salvadoran artists. (B/L/D)

Our all-day tour takes us to Tazumal, surrounded by the modern city of Chalchuapa, one of the most important pre-Columbian Maya archeological sites in El Salvador. First excavated in the early 1940s by archaeologist Stanley H. Boggs, the remains are spread over a large area with the major pyramid rising 75 feet. The site also displays remnants of tombs, smaller pyramids, a ball court, and a complex drainage system. Found here is an interesting carved basalt monolith standing 8 feet tall that depicts a handsomely adorned character with definite Olmec features. The site museum exhibits some of Stanley Boggs’ early finds.

At Casa Blanca, another large Maya site, several pyramids have been excavated and partly restored. Most of the artifacts in the site museum are from Casa Blanca’s Late Preclassic. Nearby San Andrés served as the provincial capital over the smaller settlements in the Zapotitán Valley between 600 AD and 900 AD. Archaeological evidence suggests that the Maya of San Andrés were trading with people from Honduras, Mexico, and Belize. Next, depart for the charming village of Concepción de Ataco, located in the western mountains of El Salvador and surrounded by coffee fields. Salvadoran mural painting has existed for decades. Influenced by Mexico’s mural legacy, while reflecting El Salvador’s own cultural and political identities, Concepción de Ataco showcases this striking street art. The walls of the town are covered with vibrant paintings, many representing the local ceremonies and traditions of the villagers, and we will stroll along the streets to view some of these fascinating canvases. Overnight for one night at the Casa 1800 Ataco in Concepción de Ataco. (B/L/D)

Today we visit Joya de Cerén, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. Like Pompeii and Herculaneum in Italy, it was buried under layers of ash from an eruption of a volcano in about 600 AD. Although a warning earthquake apparently gave residents time to flee, the ash preserved their personal belongings, from garden tools and bean-filled pots to sleeping mats and religious items, essentially freezing the agricultural village in time. The exceptional condition of the artifacts that were left behind, along with municipal structures and communal baths, provide an insight into the daily lives of a 6th-century Mesoamerican farming community. In the nearby valley of Zapotitán, lie the remains of San Andrés.

First established around 900 BC, it was destroyed in the 3rd century by a volcanic eruption. In the 5th century, the people rebuilt their city and for more than 300 years the powerful lords ruled over the area. Ceramics excavated from the site suggest that the city was an important trade center. In the afternoon, we drive into the Cerro Verde National Park, nestled between three volcanoes, to enjoy panoramic views including the crater lake Coatepeque, celebrated as one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. The lush forest here is teeming with flora and fauna and is a bird watcher’s paradise with migratory species like woodpeckers, jays, emerald toucanets, and 17 species of hummingbirds. Continue to San Salvador, the capital of the country, where we overnight for two nights in the Hotel Barceló San Salvador. (B/L/D)

Our city tour of San Salvador begins in the Museo Nacional de Antropologia David J. Guzman. This excellent museum has a range of artifacts to view, both Pre-Columbian and post-conquest, along with an exhibit on local handicrafts.

We will then see the city’s cathedral and the National Theater, the oldest in Central America. Built in the French Renaissance style, it was declared a national monument in 1979. Our final stop will be in the Mercado Nacional de Artesanías in search of gifts to bring home. Our final dinner party will be in one of San Salvador’s best restaurants. (B/L/D)

Transfer to the airport for our fights back home.