The Archaeology of Cambodia & Laos Tour

Arrive Phnom Penh. Transfer to the charming boutique Palace Gate Hotel & Resort, a luxurious 5-star boutique hotel in the heart of Cambodia’s bustling capital, and our home for three nights.

Begin our explorations of the capital of Cambodia by boarding a cyclo to view the historic Khmer architecture of the city. This afternoon visits the Genocide Museum of Toul Sleng, documenting the devastation left by the Khmer Rouge.

The site is a former high school that was used as the notorious Security Prison 21 (S-21) by the Khmer Rouge regime from its rise to power in 1975 to its fall in 1979. The buildings at Tuol Sleng are preserved as they were left when the Khmer Rouge was driven out. The regime kept extensive records, including thousands of photographs. Several rooms of the museum are now lined, floor to ceiling, with black and white photographs of some of the estimated 20,000 prisoners who passed through the prison. Our final stop is the Russian Market, or Psar Toul Tom Puong, repository of an amazing selection of goods from silk to silver to antiquities. Gather this evening for our festive welcome dinner. (B/L/D)

We begin with a visit to the magnificent National Museum of Art, containing some of the greatest works of art ever produced in Southeast Asia. Founded by the French in the early 20th century, the museum is housed in a beautiful building constructed in the traditional Khmer style. Continue to the lavish Royal Palace, still home to Cambodia’s present king, and the Silver Pagoda, so named for the 5,000 silver tiles which adorn it and which houses the priceless Emerald Buddha sculpted from baccarat crystal. Dinner is on our own to sample one of Phnom Penh’s excellent restaurants. (B/L)

Today is a long but worthwhile day as we travel into the lush countryside to Prasat Wat Nokor. At first glance, this Mahayana Buddhist shrine made in the 11th century of sandstone and laterite simply seems to offer an opportunity to visit a Khmer temple. Instead, as though passing through a portal, a transformation occurs and little by little we become aware that this is a living sanctuary that is a revered modern expression of the Buddhist faith. Certainly, we find carved lintels and pediments still in situ; but we then find ourselves visually assaulted by a riot of multi-hued, almost garishly painted scenes from the life of Buddha. And here and there are scattered day altars, created by present-day devotees, nestled within the many ancient alcoves, each graced with a modern-day statue of Buddha.

The opportunity to see this vivid juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern within a living temple is an experience not to be missed. Our afternoon drive takes us into the Preah Vihear Protected Forest, a protected area located in the highlands of the Dângrêk Range in northern Cambodia bordering Thailand. Overnight tonight in the Preah Vihear Boutique Hotel for one night. (B/L/D)

Explore the resplendent yet rarely visited site of Preah Vihear, Cambodia’s newest UNESCO World Heritage Site. Located in isolated and spectacular splendor on an enormous overhanging cliff in the Dângrêk Mountains, this is without question the most magnificent site of any Khmer temple. It was laid out on a north-south axis with only one entrance, and most of the large monuments here were built as a microcosm of the Hindu universe, a magical recreation on Earth of the home of the gods and the surrounding seas and continents. Possibly pre-dating Angkor, Preah Vihear displays distinctive architecture covered with stunning carvings. On our drive towards Siem Reap, you’ll stop at Koh Ker, shrouded in forest and the capital of the Angkorian empire from 928 AD to 944 AD.

Long one of Cambodia’s most remote and inaccessible temple complexes, the opening of a new road makes the site accessible, though still isolated. Built by King Jayavarman IV, the city once contained almost 100 temples. The most important structure is more than 100 feet tall, with a design that resembles a seven-stepped stupa. Then it’s on to Beng Mealea, one of the most interesting of Angkor’s many edifices. The 12th-century temple is enclosed by a massive moat and is nearly the size of Angkor Wat, but utterly subsumed by the jungle. Clambering over large sandstone blocks to reach the inner sanctuary and worship corridor is an exploration to remember. Continue to Siem Reap and overnight for the next five nights in the Shinta Mani Angkor Boutique Hotel, decorated in the lovely Cambodian style. (B/L/D)

This morning’s excursion takes us east to the Roluos Group, comprising three remarkable temples. Dating from the late ninth century, this is the oldest area open to visitors of the 600-year Angkor Period. See Bakong, protected by fierce seven-headed serpents and elegantly sculpted elephants, Preah Ko, with its six towers made entirely of brick and covered with ornate stucco ornamentation, and Lolei, covered with stunning carvings. An active Buddhist monastery is located within the compound.

Finish the day at the Angkor National Museum, housing a collection of approximately 1,300 pieces, including a gallery of 1,000 Buddhas. (B/L/D)

An early morning drive takes us to Banteay Srei, an exquisite miniature temple hidden in the heart of an immense and mysterious forest. In remarkable condition, it has a beautiful tapestry-like decoration covering the walls and scenes inspired by Indian epics that contain a liveliness not seen in earlier complexes’ more formal adornment.

Continue to Banteay Samre, a graceful Hindu temple built in the early 12th century in the Angkor Wat style. The elaborate architecture and fine carvings make this a must-see pagoda. This afternoon, enjoy an optional visit to the Artisans d’Angkor Workshop, created to revive, support, and teach the artistic traditions of Cambodia. Transfer to Chandara Villa this evening for a private dining experience with traditional dancing and a small-format puppet show. (B/L/D)

Spend the morning in Ta Prohm, a largely untouched site since its “rediscovery” by French explorers. Shrouded in dense jungle with massive roots of soaring trees encasing the temple walls, the sanctuary creates a lost world environment. Move on to enjoy a specially-arranged morning tea in the forests at Sra Srang. Opposite this 10th-century baray, or reservoir, lies Banteay Kdei, a large unrestored monastic complex displaying carvings of exceptional beauty.

In the afternoon, walk through Angkor Thom, the last capital of the Khmer Empire and surely one of the world’s great architectural achievements. The city was fortified by an enormous square of laterite walls 26 feet in height and almost two miles on each side, and within the city are glorious temples and terraces. Traverse the long causeway guarded by tranquil gods and intimidating demons and the Terrace of the Elephants protected by a multitude of these animals. Walk through the Bayon with its richly decorated galleries of bas-reliefs displaying historic scenes along with depictions of everyday life 1,000 years ago. Crowning the Bayon are tall towers graced with four iconic heads, one facing each cardinal direction that may represent the rulers of the four cardinal points at the summit of mount Meru. Explore Phimeanakas, the sanctuary where the king was said to have had nightly congress with the Snake Goddess. (B/L/D)

Begin the day in Angkor Wat, constructed as the funerary sanctuary of a 12th-century king and represents an earthly model of the cosmic world. Within the galleries is the longest continuous bas-relief in the world. The exquisite imagery on one wall depicts the kingdom’s military strength with parades of soldiers and the ruler mounted on his great war elephant. On another wall is the depiction of Vishnu and other gods pulling on a great snake to churn the cosmic sea in search of eternal life. After lunch, walk through the vast complex of Preah Khan, built in the 12th century for King Jayavarman VII and covering 140 acres. Today it is an outstanding example of a large linear temple complex in a dense jungle setting.

Covering 138 acres, Preah Khan’s boundaries are defined by a protective moat and fortified walls adorned by monumental carved stone garudas—eagle-like divine beings. Our last stop is at the small temple of Ta Som, one of the late-12th – century Buddhist temples built by Jayavarman VII. As the sun begins to go down, board traditional Khmer gondolas to float on the baray surrounding Angkor Thom. Lift a glass to the glorious sunset and a memorable day! Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

Depart Cambodia on our flight for Paksé in Laos. The slow-moving Mekong River flows through southern Laos at a leisurely pace, through the lush rainforest, and past charming villages. This majestic waterway was once a major “highway” for the Khmer empire, and awesome reminders of the greatness of this civilization are located along the water’s edge.

Aboard a privately-chartered longtail river boat, zigzag south through spectacular scenery. Arrive at Champassak in time for a riverside lunch, followed by an exploration of the majestic pre-Angkorian 10th-century temple of Wat Phu, once connected to Angkor Thom by a Royal Road. The temples contain extraordinarily beautifully executed reliefs and are considered some of the best of Khmer art. Return to Champassak and overnight at the River Resort Hotel. (B/L/D)

A morning flight brings us to Vientiane, where we have time to explore the renowned Central Market, overflowing with enticing wares. After an elegant lunch, we will explore Wat Phra Kéo, the original home of the Emerald Buddha, and Wat Si Saket, containing hundreds of small wooden, bronze, and terracotta Buddha images sitting in niches. Dinner is on our own to enjoy one of this capital city’s many fine restaurants.

Overnight for the next two nights in the Settha Palace, a beautiful French colonial mansion built at the turn of the last century. The French left Laos in 1953, but today there are more French people living here than at the height of colonial occupation. Dinner is on our own to discover one of Vientiane’s excellent restaurants. (B/L)

This morning, we go to Carol Cassidy’s Lao Textiles workshop, studio and gallery. Specializing in 100 percent hand-woven silk, the forty Lao artisans she employs produce exquisitely crafted wall hangings, scarves, shawls, and custom furnishing fabrics. Carol’s pieces are displayed in galleries and museums throughout the world. After lunch, explore Vientiane, walking along the river, including Pha That Luang, Laos’ most sacred structure and Buddhist pilgrimage site. (B/L/D)

Fly to the former royal capital of Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage City. Enjoy lunch upon arrival, walk through the truly picturesque city, and visit Wat Wisunalat, containing the largest Buddha in Luang Prabang, and Wat Xieng Thong, a royal pagoda built in the 16th century. See the murals depicting life on the Mekong River as it was centuries ago in Wat Paa Huak and the ornate door panels at Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham. Overnight for two nights in the boutique Maison Souvannaphoum Hotel, located in the city’s heart. (B/L)

Board a long-tailed boat to motor up the Mekong River to the ancient meditation caves of Pak Ou. Located on a striking limestone cliff where the Nam Ou River meets the Mekong, the caverns were used to worship the river spirit until Buddhism spread into Laos along the southern route from India.

Now filled with thousands of beautiful Buddha images, the site is still revered by locals who travel here to worship. After lunch, walk through the former Royal Palace. Visit the Private Chapel to see a gold Buddha, the opulent reception room of the king, the throne room, and the royal library. Our final dinner together will be at one of Luang Prabang’s superb restaurants. (B/L/D)

Early this morning, watch the monks receive their offering of food from the local people. After breakfast, transfer to the airport for our flight to Bangkok, Thailand, with lunch onboard. Dinner is on our own. Overnight at the 4-star Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel. (B)

Transfer to the airport for our flights home. (B)